Thursday 31 July 2008

2007-2008 ACADEMIC YEAR FOR CHOCOLATE,

This ha been a great academic year for chocolate in Universities in Europe and America, Here are some of the honours that chocolate has added to its credits.

American Chemical Society: Found a link of "love for chocolate" to a specific chemical signature that may be programmed into the metabolic system. It is detectable by laboratory tests,

It was found, as suspected that "lovers of chocolate" had a metobolic profile that involved low levels of LDL-cholestral(bad cholestrol). They also had slightly elevated levels of albumin(a benefical protein).

The amazing thing is that "lovers of chocolate" expressed this profile even when they ate no chocolate.

The gut microbes in "lovers of chocolate were also different from "non-lovers of chocolate."

For more information on the above study read the Nov.2 issue of the Journal of Proteome Research--if you dare!

German University Hospital, Cologne: dark chocolate can lower blood pressure.

University of California, Davis: chocolate can improve blood vessel function.

University of Nottingham: Chocolate improved cognitive skills by increasing blood flow to certain areas of the brain. As I said earlier eat some before taking an exam.

University of Chicago: Study claimed that those who had a chunk of chocolate generally were better disposed to others than those who had none. Wish we had flown some chunks of Silver Queen Chunky to the delegates of the recent WTO conference.

And Nestle announced the establishment of the Chocolate Centre of Excellence, dedicated to the development of luxury chocolate, at Broc. It will be operational in 2009. Persumably Nestle was encouraged by the "premiunisation" of Cailler, Baci, Nestle Noir and Perugina. Our great chocolatier Pierre Marcolini has been seconded to provide the inspiration.

I am beginning to fear that like like most common needs and joys of life, including air and water, chocolate too may eventually be priced far beyond our budgets. Hopefully Beng Beng may still be around at 10c a bar.

Wednesday 30 July 2008

THE SYNTHESIS OF JAVA CHOCOLATE.

After all the home of cocoa is in equatorial regions. Where it was consumed by crushing the beans and mixing with spices found in the backyard. Aniseed was a favourite ingredient among the Aztecs. The first cocoa drinks were very local.

In Europe, they too made it local and subsequently exported their ides throughout the world to all chocolate lovers. Up to today Milk Chocolate remains the world's most popular. But within Europe things are changing. Chocolate has acquired, over the last fifty years more localised variations and flavours. Flavours and tastes even came from colonies and former colonies. Spain particularly was very keen of give chocolate the brisk feel of the Mediterranean.

There are several dates quoted as to when cocoa came to Indonesia. Some say it was brought by the Spaniards in 1560 or thereabouts. Others, borne out by credible records, say the late 18Th century.A report of that time says that that the first person to plant 50 trees would be awarded a trophy.

This strategy seemed to work. By 1839 annual exports to Europe were around 50 tonnes. Unfortunately the Sulawesi crops came under the scourge of Helopeltis and the Cocoa Pod Borer Moth.

Plantations moved to the Sangir islands and then on the Java. The Java Criollo, red Java, produces deep red pods with white beans. Later these were combined with trees from Caracas in 1888. These pods were yellow.

In the beginning of the 20Th century, 1000kg of beans were produced per ha. In the western part of Java a lighter fermented roasted bean great for milk chocolate was produced. This cocoa was known as Edelcacao or "noble cocoa,"

Today pretty exciting plantations exist in Ciajur, between Bandung and Jakarta, Around this area sugar is made from the sap of coconut trees.

Added to cocoa paste this combination gives a warm fruity taste. Later I began to realise that cocoa adds a nice warmth to some of our backyard spices. Adding a tingling and surprising flavour and aroma. It gives a new twist to many of our local foods(and I don't just mean desserts. sweets and snacks). The "warm twist" is very seductive on the palate.

It is therefore appropriate to set out some strategies to give cocoa and chocolate a Javanese direction(which from our history is not a new thing in itself, merely a logical progression, even if it comes a bit late).

We have to acknowledge that creativity with chocolate is a global art. It is harmony within complexity. It is a celebration of joy, provocation, ethnic exuberance, innovation and peace.

Regional chocolate, like Java chocolate among others, is a natural evolution rising from the richness of our backyard resources and culinary traditions. In Java, which the world knew for hundreds of years as the Spice Island, chocolate and cocoa blends well and enriches our own natural ingredients and with the vitality and sensuality of our tastes and flavours.

Here most of all, given our enormous backyard resources, no barriers will exist between the many different worlds from exotic to erotic and from sweet to pungent. We will learn and collaborate from knowledge and experience of chocolate professionals, and reach out to the scientific world which has brought on some spectacular advances to give an impetus to our evolution.

For centuries we have been very passionate about culinary innovation. That's why Bandung is the snack capital of the world, and unique flavours and tastes have emerged from Padang, Menado, Medan, Malang, Semerang, Bali and so on. These are cuisines come about through years of collaboration with the Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, Malays and others
Our development of chocolate will follow a similar path with a focus on our own growing gourmet traditions.

In time and with a sense of purpose, given our vast culinary resources we have no doubt we will make a profound effect on the world of chocolate. I hope that those who have an passionate investment in chocolate will collaborate.

Tuesday 29 July 2008

CHOCOLATE DURING HARD TIMES.

Times maybe a little tough with cost of living going up and up. But it not preventing Indonesians from eating chocolate. A source inside Mayora, quoting research, confided that one million people eat Beng Beng everyday. This caramel, wafer, rice crispie snack thrives not only by being a good snack but it seems to enjoy the loyalties passed on from the previous generation. It is alsoi believed that Beng Beng"s distribution has a wider geographical reach penetrating well into the rural areas. It nearest competitor Top has about half as many eaters daily. And an estimate is that there are about 400,000 Silver Queen eaters daily.Silver Queen has reigned for decades as the top chocolate bar in Indonesia. Kit-Kat has about half as many daily consumers.



As we all guess the 14 to 17 year olds(of course) and the over 50s make up the largest segment of chocolate or chocolate covered confectionary. The rest are evenly spread from 18 to 49. Over 60% of the consumers are in the middle and upper income groups. There are about 90million Indonesians who buy coinfectionary(chocolate, candies hard and soft and gum), frequently(within the last month).

Monday 28 July 2008

GOD'S RECIPE FOR CHOCOLATE.

You can believe it or not. I must confess, I don't know whether I am being facetious or not. Let me tell it my way. anyway.

In the Bible(I am referring to the New International Version) it say that approximately six weeks after departing from Egypt, the Israelites were literally wandering in the desert somewhere around the plains of Jeri co. They were tired and hungry. They complained to Moses.

In answer to their complaints and having much sympathy for their hunger, God rained MANNA down from heaven for the Israelites to eat.

The Bible describes MANNA as, "It was like white coriander seed and tasted like wafers made with honey."(Exodus 16,Lies 30-31). Remember the writers of the Exodus, nor the Israelites had any points of reference. So you can draw your own conclusions.

I being an passionate chocoholic for all my life concluded that it was chocolate. It could have been white, having fallen through the the stratosphere, from it journey from heaven. Coriander is also brown. There is of course some similarity in taste between chocolate, white or milk chocolate, to what is described as wafers made with honey. Another translations describes the taste as"like flour with honey".

This happened in 1200BC. Just about the time that Anthropologist Michael D. Coe estimates that chocolate in a pot was buried alongside an Olmec notable in Mexico. It was recently unearthed.

It made eminent sense for God to give chocolate to the Israelites. They did need energy. They did need some uplifting in spirits from their severe depression. They needed vitamins and minerals and no doubt some stabilisation in their blood pressures. Chocolate of course does all these things particularly if it was processed by God.

In verse 31 of the same chapter, Moses urges the Israelites, to "keep it for generations."Apparently they obeyed. MANNA was not their only diet during their subsequent 40 years of wandering, but it was their chief diet. Michael Levine, nutritionist and researcher is quoted(in "The Emperors of Chocolate") as saying, "Chemically speaking chocolate really is the world's perfect food."

So appropriately last Sunday after Church we decided to try out God's recipe in a very simple way. We made some flour(mixed with egg white, sugar, salt,) strips, dipped it into warm liquid milk chocolate, brushed it lightly with honey and dropped it into liquid nitrogen(I found another place where you can get liquid nitrogen. Obviously at the benkel). When the pieces were rock solid we pulled them out with wooden spoons and placed it on a dish to thaw. A tap with the back of a spoon breaks it up.

You might ask why we used liquid nitrogen? Perhaps to be more authentic after all God passed his chocolate,or manna, from Heaven, through the mesosphere, stratosphere, troposphere and atmosphere to freeze it. Also because it has become an adventure with us. We tried it with dark chocolate and white too. We also put some in the frig overnight instead of using nitrogen. We tried it out with some Penabur school kids and moms the next day. They loved it.

Indeed it was very good. We can still work on refinements. We also tried mixing the flour strips with powdered coriander.The coriander with it's nutty, spicy and citrus flavour combined with Tulip chocolate's characteristic sharp spicy flavour rather nicely and contrasted well with the taste of honey.

Thank you God.

Sunday 27 July 2008

WINE IN YOUR CHOCOLATE

Alerted by an email from Austrade, following my blog on Australian chocolate, I learned that the Australians have done it again. If I am not wrong fusion cusine really reached its heights in Brisbane combining Thai with influences from Europe. Well now the inventive Australians have combined wine with chocolate.

Actually, I am bit late in reporting this. Much of the introduction happenned at ISM in last year. But this year the plant in Scoresby is really going to get serious about chocolate and wine, organic chocolate and chocolate with great healthly flavours like youghart.

Using a techinique developed by Horizon Science, and licensed to Farm by Nature,under brand name Cocoa Farm the wine range was launched.

Fortunately and wisely the Aussies choose Shiraz as one of the wines(Merlot and Pinot Nior, the others in the range). Shirz with its spicy, rich berry and cherry flavours, licorice and pepper was a natural choice to compliment the basic flavours of chocolate. Shiraz even had a inviting hint of chocolate.

I wasnt particularly excited. The Shiraz didnt really impact itself on the palate.
I have tasted better gourmet chocolates.I have no doubts, knowing the culinary experts and food technologists of Australia rather well, it will get better, pretty soon.

The chocolate is not Australian. To me it seemed had some hints of Valrhona. At least the bar I tasted. I hope I am not upsetting anyone with this. However I believe that the cocoa estate at Mossman have harvested their first crops. The Aussies have to still learn how to process the beans. No doubt it will not take too long before their innovative skills come out on top again.

In Indonesia a limited suppy of these bars are available sometimes at Sogo Food Hall.

Saturday 26 July 2008

CHOCOLATE IN YOUR BUBUR AYAM.

If you are reading this story from Mexico, Bubur is Indonesian for rice porridge. Everywhere you go in Java and rest of the 17000 islands of Indonesia you will find some variety of Bubur. The Chinese and Indians call it congee(porridge). It could well be Asia's main prepared food. Usually eaten as supper(much after dinner) or breakfast.

The are simple congees to complex ones. A fairly sophiscated version is made with the famous Chinese Five Spices with shreds of chicken.

What is Chinese Five Spices? Well its the great wonder powder that the Chinese invented to combine the five elements of taste: sour, bitter, sweet, pungent, and salty. Very, very close to the five elements of the taste of chocolate: sour, bitter,sweet,astrigent and umami.

Bitterness in chocolate comes from the caffeine, L-valine,L-tyrosine and L-isoleucine.The sour from acetic acid, latic acid and citric and oxalic. The sweet from galatose, glucose, L-serine, fructose and sucrose.Astringency, which I liken to puncency comes from amines, eplatechin, catechin and other horribly difficult to spell elements. Just trust me.

What is umami? Well in chocolate it come comes two main elements, glutamic acid and aspartic acid. You will find these elements in Ajinamoto. I liken it to being salty savoury.

Make your congee by boiling rice and once it is ready allow to simmer for about an hour. It will not boil over. Combine, strips of chicken, a clove of garlic crushed, thin strips of ginger, a teaspoon of oyster sauce,pinch of pepper, two pinches of salt, and simmer it with the cosimmering porridge.Added finely chopped onions if you wish. Then add two tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa. stir in and simmer. Garnish with fried onions. Serve.

With a dash of soy it can bring much joy.

You can makt a bit more interesting if you throw in some roasted cocoa nibs and some ikan bilis(deep fried anchovies) Even Italian anchovies are great as a garnish. Overdoing it perhaps but as Mae West said"Too much of a good thing is wonderful".

Friday 25 July 2008

WHICH INDONESIAN CHOCOLATES ARE GOOD FOR YOUR HEALTH?

In the last few weeks I have received many emails from those you who have been reading my blogs. I have also been asked by teachers, mothers and others who I sell chocolates to, which chocolates, or more precisely which Indonesian chocolates, should they buy to get the benefits I have written about in my blogs.

The delay in replying is obviously because I had to talk to experts. Nutritionists, doctors, universities here and abroad to get some valid answers.

No Indonesian chocolate actually contain no polyphenols to provide an anti-oxidant effect or to be really good to lower your blood pressure or good for your heart or have beneficial effects on your blood pressure.Polyphenols in are rich in cocoa but are destroyed(not completely) during fermentation and by heat during cocoa processing.

Flavonoids also present in cocoa is lost during processing. Its benefits to memory and learning are non-existent in locally produced chocolate.

What is therefore of benefit in say Silver Queen,the most popular of all chocolate?
It is an important source of energy with its concentration of calories packaged in a small volume. Cocoa and chocolate are among the most concentrated vegetable energy suppliers.In fact it is probably true that a bar of Silver Queen will give more energy that a bottle of Extra-Joss.

Silver Queen like all good chocolates with its content of sugars and fats can produce a positive, soothing,"suntai" psychological effect while being enjoyed and for some time after. This is probably due to the presence of theombromine and caffeine(minimal).

Silver Queen, will also contain some insoluble dietary fiber which is important in providing a smooth passage of food through the intestines and keep their and stomach walls clean.

Milk chocolate and white chocolate will also contain calcium and proteins. Silver Queen will probably have about 3-4g of protein to 100g.

Silver Queen will also contain some amounts of vitamin A, B Complex, D and E(mostly in Black). But much less, less than 5% of the RDA of each. Minerals are also likely to be present in Silver Queen. Calcium, Copper, Iron, Phosphorus, Zinc and Magnesium, in small quantities.

Chocolate, according to hundreds of scientific studies, has no direct effect on obesity. It does not cause tooth decay or acne.

In the near future you will have chocolates from Mars Inc with Flavanols. Barry Callebaut have already introduced chocolate with polyphenols.Chocolates, with high content of cocoa and other beneficial ingredients are available from time to time at Sogo Food Hall.

Currently Indonesian chocolate manufacturers show very little interest in improving the nutritional profile of their chocolate. Recent launches of snack products show shocking disregard for nutrition.The focus is on taste and texture experiences which they feel cannot be compromised.

I sell chocolates face to face not from shelves and increasing I am asked if the chocolates I sell are indeed "good for you". The consumers of chocolate and chocolate snacks are demanding satiusfaction in health and balanced foods.

Manufacturers elsewhere are getting very serious about new recipes. Kraft has invested much in nanotechnology and molecular gastronomy which analyst the physiochemical laws to create new recipes.Since Kraft's investment in these sciences 15 universities have opened nanotechnology laboratories. The objective to create products that will identify with consumer needs. Manufacturers will soon have to work alongside with physicists and chemists.

Thursday 24 July 2008

AUSTRALIAN COCOA

Little is known about Australian coco beans and coco production. But cocoa is being grown in parts of Queensland. A few dark chocolates Origin Australia have trickled out of the country and were available at Sogo Food Hall recently.

The cocoa tree first came to Australia in 1900 from Papua New Guinea. But serious planting and trials began only in 2000. The first harvest was in 2002.The trees are mainly of the Criollo variety.

The news from down under is that they are somewhat astringent with a light citrus taste. The climate is hot and humid. Cocoa is grown under commercial timber trees. However there is isn't the kind of rainfall that cocoa trees thrive under.

But processors and chocolate should take the Australians seriously. See what they did with wines. Queensland's main strengths are it resources,technical expertise, a capable grower base, hundreds of domestic chocolate manufacturers. Also Australia with it severe plant import laws will possible be able to produce disease and pest free cocoa which plagues the rest of the cocoa growing world.

If they get down to the task, the Australians are capable of producing a high quality product, with a clean, safe image. They will also be capable of high yields. There is a niche production for tourism, which has begun in a small scale.The producers will be leveraged to the value chain.

With a growing genetic resource base, the possibility is that the country could be capable some quality cocoa from hybrids in a few years.

Now that wine and chocolate is being paired and likened, perhaps the astute wine growers of Australia could also turn their noses and palates to creating prize winning chocolate.

Wednesday 23 July 2008

IF YOU ARE STUDYING FOR EXAMINATIONS EAT CHOCOLATE

It's good for the heart. It is good for pregnant women.Now scientists confirm that it is good for students studying for examinations. Two studies reveal this. The latest commissioned by MARS and another conducted by Yale University.

THE NEUROBIOLOGY OF CHOCOLATE

In the MARS study it was discovered that cocoas rich in flavonols increased blood flow to the brain and therefore can help in learning, solving and memorizing. Besides giving relief from fatigue. It worked in participants who drank flavonol rich cocoa.

It also worked on mice. Mice fed on flavonol were more effective in solving and remembering.

Dr,. Ian Macdonald of Nottingham University, an old friend, said that flavonal works by enhancing nitrous oxide(NO2) circulation NO2 improves circulation by dilating blood vessels.

Flavonol is actually very bitter. It also is lost during processing. MARS however is coming up with a marketable version costing about $2.

The Yale study also revealed that even the smell of chocolate would improve memory and learning capabilities.

Tuesday 22 July 2008

NITROGEN COOKED CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

Over 30 years ago at Oakhill College New South Wales, we made instant ice cream in our Science lab, using liquid nitrogen. On August 26, this year Chefs Alexander Talbot and Aki Kamozawa will teahing chefs and others about the use of liquid nitrogen in cooking. What took them so long?

The big problem of using liquid nitrogen in cookin in Indonesia is its availability exactly for this purpose. Try your hospital and a friendly pediatrician. Or welders. School science labs did not have it. At least those i have checked with.

The are also safety issues you must be aware of. Contact with liquid nitrogen is dangerous. Safety clothing, gloves and safety glasses should be worn.

Now the recipe. You need:

1 quart of heavy cream.
1 pint milk
3 tablespoons Vanilla
Half cup sugar
Chocolate chips or crush dark courverture Tulip chocolate.
And you need 5 litres of liquid nitrogen.

For cokking tools you need:
Large stainless stell mixing bowl
Wooden mixing spoons

The Method:
Mix the cream, milk,vanilla and sugar in the steel bowl, Stir until the sugar is
dissolved.Add the chocolate chips or/and crushed dark chocolate.

Now the liquid nitrogen

Place the steel bowl in the sink. Be warned it will overflow.
Pour an estimate of one litre of liquid nitrogen into the bowl.It is impossible to measure liquid nitrogen. So you must estimate.
There will be lots of cool fog. Do not stir.
Let the nitrogen do the job of freezing the mixture.
Stir cautiously. Some parts of the mixture will be frozen. Other parts will be liquid. Stir with the wooden spoon and mix till you have a consistant mixture. Then add more nitrogen. Let it freeze for a few seconds and then stir. The trick now is to stir and stir till you have a consistant mixture. Keep adding small amounts of liquid nitrogen as you stir. Finally you have a nice consistant mixture.

Why you end up with a wonderful creamy ice cream is due to the rapid freezing. The nitrogen makes the fat and water particles to stay ver small. This gives the ice cream extra smoothness. Scientists say that rapid freezing also preserves the nutrients in food.

Keep reading this newsletter for more information and recipes on MOLECULAR GASTRONOMY
using chocolate.

Sunday 20 July 2008

IS THIS THE RIGHT TIME FOR SILVER QUEEN CHOCOLATE ICE CREAMS

Per capita Ice cream consumption in Indonesia is probably the lowest in the world with just 0.1 liters per annum according to a studies by Unilever. Singapore has the highest in Asia with 2 liters and New Zealand the highest in the world at 28.4 liters. Unilever plans to double its Asian consumption by 2010.

Indonesia with 200million should be a very good potential for ice cream growth. Unilever is not kidding when they say it is the fastest growing category. The country has all the right ingredients. The modern trade is growing. The convenience store is expanding at a phenomenal rate.Urbanization and disposable income in the 20 largest cities is growing rapidly. Refrigerator penetration is at 82% in the Modern and convenience retail outlets. The cold chain is growing fast. Ice creams are also relatively cheap. A nice cone with chocolate topping costs less than 0.80cents. There are few major brands in this country.

But ice cream needs a boost. It is by far an impulse purchase. It is not clearly understood. Even Unilever's Moo, which is great value, with its calcium benefits, is not really changing people's cooling down, or mood habits.

Silver Queen on the other hand is clearly understood. It is Indonesia's market leader. The most popular across the age and income spectrum. Nearly every Indonesian has sometime or other enjoyed Silver Queen. Ice cream topped with Silver Queen has benefits that needs no elaboration for consumers or ice cream producers and their marketing departments.It suits ice cream because it is also a great mood food.

It is perhaps more than a rumor that the ice cream manufacturers are thinking about it. Obviously it is a winning formula and ingredient. Or they should. It is also more that a rumor that a fast food chain has considered a Silver Queen sundae. Now with the many variants of Silver Queen the idea becomes more attractive with more options
.But ice cream manufacturers need Silver Queen more than Silver Queen needs ice cream manufacturers.....

Will it work? It will, according to enthusiasts and professionals. The slightly sharp cocoa taste will blend well with vanilla ice cream. Both the milk chocolate and the dark Silver Queen will work just as well.The cashews for which Silver Queen is famous is added bonus. But they need crisper roasting for ice cream topping.

Friday 18 July 2008

THREE SECRETS FOR A PERFECT CHOCOLATE COOKIE

We think anyone can bake a cookie. Kids do it in school. All over town are bakeries that sell cookies.After all to make a cookie all you need flour,butter,eggs,sugar, leavening agents,salt and of course chocolate. Simple right? Yet most of the cookies we munch into are quite insipid. There are three secrets you must know to bake the super cookie.

1)Mix and leave the dough in the frig for at least 36 hours. Why? Shirley O Corriher author of "Cook Wise" all about Science in the kitchen explains: it allows trhe dough to soak up the liquid especially the eggs which are gelatinous and neet a longer hydration time.

The butter coats the flour, preventing the liquid from going through. The extra time in the frig allows the liquids to get through to the dry ingredients.

2) Size is important. The best cookie size is 12cm. Big! This is when the three textures really come through. The first nibble cracks with a bite releasing the wonderful warm flavours of butter and caramel. In the center is a 4cm softer ring.
Between these two zones the flavors mix delightfully. Use lots of chocolate. Use Dark Tulip for best effect and couverture because it melts better.The ratio of chocolate to dough should be 40 to 60.

3)The last secret is Salt. Not just any ordinary salt but sea salt in the dough and sprinkled on top adds tremendous effect to you cookie.

More information on other interesting cookies are available from the writer.If you serve it warm from a warming oven it can be sheer bliss.

SINGLE ORIGIN AND JAVA COCOA

Increasing we hear about Single Origin Chocolate or Cocoa. What this means is that cocoa or chocolate from a single country has it own distinctive flavor. This flavor is due to the genetics of the plant, the soil and climatic conditions, fermentation, drying and other post harvest practices.This means that beans produced from one country is very distinctive and unique. Rather like wines. And like wines you may go further into regions within one country or even to particular plantations.

Single origin chocolate has not yet caught on in Indonesia. Though it is rumored that Freyabadi is experimenting, on behalf of customers, with single origin from Ghana and other countries in West Africa and Papua New Guinea. In Europe( Belgium, France, Germany, UK) of course according to recent studies 42% of chocolate consuming respondents have discovered origin chocolate. The Swiss are the most regular consumers of Origin chocolates, with 23% of them enjoying it at least a few times a month(Research by Barry Callebaut).In Indonesia you may be able to find a few bars at Sogo Supermarkets sometimes.

Java Cocoa is of the Crillo variety. The tree is a native of South America. It is known as the "flavor beans" and prized for their fragrance. Crillo has travelled far from South America to Java. The soil conditions are certainly different. Java is incredibly fertile. The soil is mainly volcanic. The island is home to almost every spice and herb known on earth.It enjoys and humid, wet, equatorial climate.Cocoa trees here have a lot of shade.

In flavor Java cocoa is bold in flavors that are ideal for milk chocolate because it can withstand dilution with milk solids. It is of a highly acidic nature with a citrus like flavor presentation. There are bolder flavors of leather(the experts say but I notice a hint of cardamom) and smoke. Overallthe cocoa is extremely light in body but strong in flavor. If you are a wine drinker Java Chocolate goes best with of course the wines with pronounced acidity and fruitiness, dry or semi-sweet.

Single origin Java is good for milk chocolate. It is also very interesting as a dark semi sweet.Indonesian manufacturers are however not very interested in maximizing tits potential nor of other Origins like Sulawesi, Sumatra,Timur, or Papua.Indonesian cocoa is waiting for innovators and more passion.

Besides single origin the selection process can go further. There are also cocoa or chocolate that are Grand Cru Cacao a marketing term invented by Valrhona when it launched Guanaja, a South American mixture of beans.

The highest honor goes to Premier Cru/Estate Grown where beans come from specific plantations. It is terminology taken from the wine industry.Though in wine Grandu Cru is loftier that Premier, it is reverse in the chocolate industry. Famous of a Premium Cru is Cluizel's Ier Cru Chocolate which is a single estate and considered superior to Valrhona's Guanaja.

Wednesday 16 July 2008

GEOPOLITICS OF CHOCOLATE

After over 3000 years of existence chocolate is far from being global in character. Chocolate is essentially European in personality and culture. It has no overtones nor undertones of Africa or Asia. If it continues on this track, given the surge of popularity of chocolate, the frequency of consumption per chocolate lover. in time it is going, to get boring.Indeed you must admit Europe is getting pretty boring these days.

Acquiring and absorbing Asian characteristics(I cant cant talk about Africa yet),will give it a new lease in life and a vibrant developing personality. However it is not going to be an easy task. And it is best not to leave it to the Japanese. They make great European chocolate.

TOUGH TO MARKET

Marketing "Asian chocolate" will deter enthusiasts. It does sound, at this time at least, pretty absurd. Asian chocolate indeed! Some kind of stupid chauvinistic idea?It will be tough to gain acceptance even by Asians. Asians swear by European chocolate. They grew up on very traditional flavors according to the sacred chocolate books written by the Swiss and the Belgians. And by the uncompromising Germans chocolatiers.

But stranger things have happened. Beatles lovers now enjoy Bollywood. Even a surviving Beatle confesses to enjoy Bollywood.Eastern noodles have found a Western flavour. Curries become British.But if chocolate were seen as acquiring Asian flavors, the Belgians would be affronted. The Swiss furious. The French will grumble.The British amused at first.The Americans of course will care. They love their chocolate, bland.

THE CONSERVATIVE CHEFS

There will also be some derision from Asian chocolate purists including highly regarded chefs.Asians are conservative like the Europeans and change is threatening. Bad for business. To create Asian chocolate flavors one must necessarily appeal to not just the master chefs but to alchemist chefs.

CHOCOLATE KINGS

The Asian chocolate must also have the support of brave manufacturers. They will be disinclined to devote the production lines to something untested and to bizarre deeds.They may be persuaded to try on a small scale.Such a task can only be asked of the leaders. Who better in Asia, than the Chocolate Kings themselves, The Chuang brothers of Petra Foods(the fourth largest manufacturer of chocolate ingredients in the world).They can take the initiates of research and development.

UNIVERSITY RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT

Universities admittedly have been experimenting but see little encouragement from the business sector. one or two Australian universities have taken chocolate to new areas that are distinctly Asian or at least regional. They need support. The top Asian Universities may eventually find this area of food technology quite lucrative.

Of the countries, Singapore is cautious and too eager for quick returns. Thailand is engrossed with other foods and flavors. Which the Australians are fusing. The Philippines prefer fudge it seems.The task seems to be left to Indonesia, the third largest producer of cocoa and home of many thriving chocolate industries from the big and established right down to the tiny household entrepreneurs.

THE SULTAN

There are also people in Indonesia destined for the task. The Sultan of Jogjakarta(a city close to the cocoa heartland), who is also a very enlightened governor of the city,could take the lead in establishing a center for chocolate with the assistance of the many notable universities within his jurisdiction.

ASIAN CHOCOLATE AND THE BRAIN

What is Asian Chocolate. It understand it in its proper perspective is important to understand the science of eating. Eating involves all senses and even some of our instincts. All this to tuned up to the olfactory bulb. From this complex network information on the flavors what we are eating is send to the brain.

The brain then decides on this current information and stored data what we are going to like or dislike. This is the basis of a defense systems that will reject flavors that we don't like. It also welcomes surprises and evaluates them.The brain of course highly approves of chocolate. Milk chocolate. Chocolate and hazel nuts. Chocolates and biscuits. The brain can be persuaded to love contrasting flavors such as what was proved by combining white chocolate with salty caviar.If the tongue is adventurous, the brain give its wholehearted approval.So it is important to set aside preconceptions. For instance as it discovered in caviar and white chocolate salt can do wonders with chocolate. And Asia abounds with the most exotic salty flavors.

Our brain can also anticipate flavors,even new flavors and unusual combination of flavours based on information stored in its data base.It evaluates and passes judgment. Asian chocolate are those blends that the brain, first surprised eventually pronounces as "wonderful." So careful research in combinations and blends is needed. Milk and chocolate was easy. Marzipan and chocolate inevitable. Hazelnuts and chocolate, the squirrels could have come with it.

EXPERIMENTS

The movement has begun. Traditional Asian Flavors are being experimented by a few of the alchemists chefs. Some interesting recipes have been tried and accepted by a select number of chocolate lovers and by many well trained brains.No chillies, I assure you have been tried in these experiments. We have left it that to the Mexicans.

For more information and recipes contact the
writer.

Tuesday 15 July 2008

THE GREAT DONUT DIP

Of course you have enjoyed donuts covered with chocolate. But have you ever tried donuts dipped in CHOCOLATE COFFEE SAUCE. It is a great treat. And best of all it is very simple.

WHAT YOU NEED
300gm of unrefined sugar
One cup of water
40 coffee beans
180gm cocoa powder
60gm of TULIP bitter chocolate
Pinch of salt

WHAT TO DO
1)Melt the sugar in pan over medium heat
2)Dip a pastry brush in cup of water and keep brushing sides of pan till the sugar is caramelized.
3)Add rest of water from cup, coffee beans, cocoa powder, chocolate and pinch of salt.
4)Bring to boil
5)Sieve
6)Cool
7)Dip the donuts.

For variety you may crush peanut brittle and sprinkle over the cooled chocolate sauce.

Monday 14 July 2008

CAVIAR AND CHOCOLATE. THE GLOOMY NEWS

The CNN reported recently that according to John Mason, Executive Director and Founder of Conservation Research Council located in Ghana, chocolate will become like cavier.

"It will become so rare and expensive that the ordinary Joe will not be able to afford it" says Mason.

The reason is declining yields of cocoa from West Africa which produces about 70% of the world's cocoa. Due to soil degradation. The way cocoa is being farmed is just not sustainable.

CAVIAR AND CHOCOLATE . THE GOOD NEWS

It may not really sound as the ideal combination, but the Guardian newspaper in the UK
pronounces it as "fantastic" or words to that effect. And even implies that it procures all your senses and even your brain in the enjoyment of cavier on white chocolate discs.
Yes it is as simple at that. Most great ideas are simple anyway.

The inventor is the alchemist, Chef Hugh Blumenthol owner of Fat Duck at Bray, UK. That,s the good news.

CHOCOLATE IS PROBABLY THE BEST FOR YOUR HEART

Flavonoid-rich chocolate and soy make decrease blood pressure and improve heart health, says this month's issue of the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition reporting a study of 133 trials by the University of East Anglia, Britain. That is probably not so new news. But what is new is that the same study reports that flavonoids from other sources are not as effective. Chocolate is best! It was also observed at the same trials that chocolate also lowered the bad cholesterol levels.

Chocolate also achieved a four percent increase in blood flow, the study reported.

GREAT NEWS FOR A SHY INNOVATOR

This is probably great new for a Swiss Chef I know who lives in Sydney. He has been working on combining tempe with dark and also white chocolate and has come out with some delicious results. " It works, but I am still perfecting the recipe," he mailed.
"No it is definitely not going to be in the region of $2,600 a pound. Probably less than $26 a pound." He indicated that he has worked on pralines, squares and donuts. Once on the market it will deliver a two pronged benefit: that of chocolate and soy protein.

Sunday 13 July 2008

$2,600 A POUND CHOCOLATE

If you love chocolate that much then perhaps you may be interested in this Chocolate Truffle created by Chef Fritz Knipchild from a culinary school in Denmark. He uses only his bare hands to make this. This comes in an approximately 4cm diameter with French black truffle inside. Made from 70% Valhrono cocoa it blended with truffle oil into a creamy ganache. It is finally dusted with cocoa powder. One piece will cost you $250 if you don't want to buy it by the pound.

CHOCOLATE AND CHILD LABOUR

Should every bar of chocolate carry an assurance that no child labour was ever involved in its production. Considering that hardly a day passes without a glimpse of of chocolate, if not its enjoyment, it is fair to ask manufacturers for such an assurance.

After the signing of the Harkin-Enoel Protocol in 2001, there are still doubts whether children are being exploited in cocoa farms, especially in West Africa. Disturbingly photographs of cocoa plantations in these areas often picture children who seem to be not just onlookers but part of the labour force. Indonesia, the world's third largest producer of cocoa, fortunately has been free from any allegations of child exploitation.Considering many of the farms, especially outside Java, are small family owned holdings, it is comforting that children are in school most of the working day.

Child labour is a disturbing issue. Especially these days when media reports exploitation of children widespread in all kinds of dreadful sins the chocolate industry, particularly must free itself from any such stigma. If manufacturers are reluctant for reasons that it may be inconvenient, the consumers must take the imitative. Can we ask that the next bar of chocolate we enjoy guarantees that a child wasn't exploited in its production. Considering the wretchedness of the the problem it is not too much to ask of manufacturers. Perhaps it it also be worth while, and certainly aid to our addiction to chocolate, if the bar we are enjoying in some way contributed to the welfare of a child in the cocoa growing areas.

It does well to remember that cocoa was first cultivated some 3000 years ago and treated with great reverence. Now that we are adequately civilised we do have responsibility to ensure that the food of the gods is not in any way tainted by misdeeds.

A WELL KEPT CHOCOLATE SECRET

It is no secret that the Belgians are great chocolatiers. The Spaniards could be flamboyant chocolatiers,. The French must be stylish. One mustn't forget the Swiss, for they are very serious at choclatiering(new words do keep cropping up dont they?). One didnt take the Japanese very seriously. Chocolate lovers are slowly discovering Japanese chocolate with some pleasure.

In these capitals of chocolate, a mention of Indonesia as a chocolate country will bring a dismissive look that says "Don't be silly." Java, may be known for it distinctive smokey, spicy cocoa flavours. But as a producer of chocolate or chocolate ingredients Java is never taken seriously.

The truth is that Java, besides producing much sought after Origin cocoa can make chocolate ingredients as well as the Belgians, Germans or the Swiss. In fact they already. Which is not surprising. They have the technology, the sciences, the inventiveness, the experience and the expertise.

What is extraordinary is that they even have the history. Cocoa was first grown in the Indonesian islands in the early 17Th Century after arriving on a Spanish ship all the way from Venezuela. By the I8th century the Dutch were already exporting cocoa from Indonesia to Holland. Cocoa press were already making chocolate to drink by the 19th century. By 1950s chocolate manufacturers in Java were already producing milk chocolates that was making a impact on chocolate lovers. Today you can seen the ultra -modern factory of Ceres, the industry leader, in Bandung in West Java. Here they not only produce Van Houten under licence for Barry Callebaut but their own brands. Silver Queen milk chocolate with cashews is a legend in the region. It has a strong cocoa explosion on the tongue, which is a pleasant surprise.Then the sweet milky after tones in a nice combination of flavours.The cashews fragments are a bonus filler. There is also veryrich and pleasant and lingering aftertaste of having experienced somthing rather pleasurable.

Silver Queen was such a success that naturally it had many imitators. Even Cadbury started their cashew range hoping to capture some market share. Silver Queen still reigns supreme. But it not the only chocolate of consequence in Indonesia and the region. There are other brands that have done well. Bakeries have revelled in creating chocolate snacks as have donut outlets and other fast foods. Harvest a new relatively new bakery have a immense variety of chocolate cakes and snacks which not just taste as good as you would experience in Belgium but even look as good as French and Japanese pastry.

Not far from the capital of Jakarta is Freyabadi, a Ceres joint venture with Japan's mighty food innovators and vegetable oil producers,Fuji Oil This is factory with pristine, well organised production floor. It is easy to believe that this factory can indeed produce world-class chocolate. Staffed by experienced professionals, food technologists and microbiologists they run a superbly organised chocolate ingredients production centre. There are others that are also quite impressive for their capabilities.

The potential for discovery in Java is staggering. Possibly every known spice , flavour and herbs grow in Java. Also a great variety of nuts, and fruits. Its high valconic mountains ranges and equatorial jungles provide a wide variety of climatically facvourable conditions and soils. Java is also home to literally thousands of indegenous snacks most of them surprising in their uniqueness. Many can blend so nicely with chocolate and that' kind of innovation isalready happenning with the small household and medium sized industries all over the island. It is a worthy study for serious, flamboyant and professional chocolatiers.

There have been many innovations in the confectionary, chocolate and pastry industries. But in such a creative profession it is still amazing to find that are still a large number of crusty curmudgeons who must source ftheir ingredients from traditional markets. They are missing out on delivering some wonderful surprises to their audiences. One way is to turn to Java to be inventive with chocolate.