Wednesday 30 July 2008

THE SYNTHESIS OF JAVA CHOCOLATE.

After all the home of cocoa is in equatorial regions. Where it was consumed by crushing the beans and mixing with spices found in the backyard. Aniseed was a favourite ingredient among the Aztecs. The first cocoa drinks were very local.

In Europe, they too made it local and subsequently exported their ides throughout the world to all chocolate lovers. Up to today Milk Chocolate remains the world's most popular. But within Europe things are changing. Chocolate has acquired, over the last fifty years more localised variations and flavours. Flavours and tastes even came from colonies and former colonies. Spain particularly was very keen of give chocolate the brisk feel of the Mediterranean.

There are several dates quoted as to when cocoa came to Indonesia. Some say it was brought by the Spaniards in 1560 or thereabouts. Others, borne out by credible records, say the late 18Th century.A report of that time says that that the first person to plant 50 trees would be awarded a trophy.

This strategy seemed to work. By 1839 annual exports to Europe were around 50 tonnes. Unfortunately the Sulawesi crops came under the scourge of Helopeltis and the Cocoa Pod Borer Moth.

Plantations moved to the Sangir islands and then on the Java. The Java Criollo, red Java, produces deep red pods with white beans. Later these were combined with trees from Caracas in 1888. These pods were yellow.

In the beginning of the 20Th century, 1000kg of beans were produced per ha. In the western part of Java a lighter fermented roasted bean great for milk chocolate was produced. This cocoa was known as Edelcacao or "noble cocoa,"

Today pretty exciting plantations exist in Ciajur, between Bandung and Jakarta, Around this area sugar is made from the sap of coconut trees.

Added to cocoa paste this combination gives a warm fruity taste. Later I began to realise that cocoa adds a nice warmth to some of our backyard spices. Adding a tingling and surprising flavour and aroma. It gives a new twist to many of our local foods(and I don't just mean desserts. sweets and snacks). The "warm twist" is very seductive on the palate.

It is therefore appropriate to set out some strategies to give cocoa and chocolate a Javanese direction(which from our history is not a new thing in itself, merely a logical progression, even if it comes a bit late).

We have to acknowledge that creativity with chocolate is a global art. It is harmony within complexity. It is a celebration of joy, provocation, ethnic exuberance, innovation and peace.

Regional chocolate, like Java chocolate among others, is a natural evolution rising from the richness of our backyard resources and culinary traditions. In Java, which the world knew for hundreds of years as the Spice Island, chocolate and cocoa blends well and enriches our own natural ingredients and with the vitality and sensuality of our tastes and flavours.

Here most of all, given our enormous backyard resources, no barriers will exist between the many different worlds from exotic to erotic and from sweet to pungent. We will learn and collaborate from knowledge and experience of chocolate professionals, and reach out to the scientific world which has brought on some spectacular advances to give an impetus to our evolution.

For centuries we have been very passionate about culinary innovation. That's why Bandung is the snack capital of the world, and unique flavours and tastes have emerged from Padang, Menado, Medan, Malang, Semerang, Bali and so on. These are cuisines come about through years of collaboration with the Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, Malays and others
Our development of chocolate will follow a similar path with a focus on our own growing gourmet traditions.

In time and with a sense of purpose, given our vast culinary resources we have no doubt we will make a profound effect on the world of chocolate. I hope that those who have an passionate investment in chocolate will collaborate.

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