Saturday 30 August 2008

COCOA FROM SULAWESI.

Sulawesi is one of the 17,340 islands of Indonesia. From the air is looks somewhat like an octapus with four large tentacles. It is surrounded by beautiful waters full of marine life and coral reefs which make it a world class diving destination.

With land area of 174,600square kilometers is is the 11 largest island in the world with a populationof 16million. An island of much spectacle in views and culture is also home of Asian and Australasian species.Much of the flora and fauna do not exist out of Sulawesi.

Many of us will know Sulawesi by Starbucks Sulawesi Coffee. It is a seasonal coffee with a heavy body and just a little spicy. But Sulawesi is really famous for being of a world supplier of cocoa beans. Sulawesi beans are usually unfermented, bulk beans used as fillers with other fermented beans.

Sulawesi produces about 400,000 metric tons of cocoa beans and products( almost 80% of Indonesia production, including Java and Sumatraq.

Sulawesi cocoa beans are produced by small holder farmers on .5 to 1.5 hectacres of farms.Each farm produces between 400 to 800kg per hectacre.Sulawesi have some of the highest cocoa bean yields in the world and one of the largest areas in production. About two million people on Sulawesi are dependant on cocoa beans for their livlihood.

Farmers sell to collectors on motorbikes. Collectors sell to traders. Traders sell to local exporters. Small amounts go to local processors. 80% of the Sulawesi beans are sold by five multi-national affliate exporters in Sulawesi:EDF & Man, Olam, Cargill, ADM and Continaf. They in turn sort and grade and sell to buyers in US, Malaysia,Singapore and Brazil. There are also processors and manufacturers locally, one of the largest being Effem(Mars). Once out of Indonesia Indonesian cocoa beans become part of the global trade in cocoa.

Sulawesi cocoa beans are traded as "Sulawesi FAQ" in the New York Commodities Exchange.


Sulawesi farmers get about 80% of the export value of the beans as against 50%-60% in West Africa. There is no exploitation of children in the Indonesian cocoa trade.

The major problems which effect yield and quality is disease, (Cocoa Pod Borer) and the traditional methods used by small holder farmers. However with much support from government, World Cocoa Foundation, international and local institutions and processors and manufacturers farmers field schools are being set up. A pilot on Fermentationis being set up in Bali and disease control practices are being implemented.

Sulawesi is a most picteresque island. Created specially for two kinds of hiking, along the intricate coastline or inland into the central mountainous regions and the 2,290sq km national park. It was also created for the best experiences you can imagine in snorkling or deep diving.

Friday 29 August 2008

MORE ABOUT OLYMPIANS.

It's good modern day Olympians enjoy chocolate. Ancient Olympians did not have that privilege and had to work much harder on their diets. This piece of information comes from National Geographic 2004. It relates an account by Theodorus of Hierapolis.

Milon of Croton was an ancient Olympian wrestler. He used to eat 9kilograms of meat and as much of bread. He drank three pitchers of wine. At Olympia, he carried a four year bull on his shoulders, carried it around the stadium. After this he cut it up and ate it all alone in a single day.

Fortunately we have chocolate for our Olympians today.

Thursday 28 August 2008

OF COURSE HE DOES !

Yes Usain Bolt, the Jamacian Olympic gold medallist, loves clowning, grimacing at television cameras, running the 100 meters with unfastened shoes. He even slowed down during the 100 meter sprint to see if there was anyone close. There wasnt. He won in the best time ever, 9.69secs. He smashed the 200meter record with 19.67.

And yes, he loves chocolate. He likes to chew on chocolate nuggets and sleeping instead of training, reported the People's Daily.

CHOCOLATE IN RUSSIA

Until today I thought Red October was a submarine commanded by Sean Connery. An email from a Russian citizen informed me that it was the largest confectionery and chocolate manufacturer in Russia. It has 15 retail outlets in Moscow alone. I was also reprimanded because I never mentioned Russia as a country of chocolate lovers. I am told that Russia is the third largest confectionery market in Europe and the fourth largest in the world after USA, Germany and the UK.

The average per annum consumption of confectionery products in Russia was 17kg per capita. Confectionery is produced in the region of 2.6million tons per year. A ripping 37% growth since 2000. The market value, according to experts is close to US$4 billion.

In the confectionery market, pastries take 57%, chocolate 25% and the rest goes to candies including chocolate confectionery.

The chocolate is however the most rapidly developing. Volume grown today is estimated at 550,000 tons with a growth of about 2,5% annually and the monetary growth registering 20% annually. This indicates a trend among consumers towards higher quality chocolates.

The top two chocolate manufacturers are Russian. After Red October(wonderful name!)is Babayersky Confectionery OAO. Nestle is number three. There are other international manufacturers like Mars, Kraft andUnited Bakers.

There is a spate of chocolate boutiques opening in Moscow and the other major cities. My friend tells me his favourite is the Guylian, a small cosy chocolatier and cafe. The "Guylian Breakfast' being his favourite. It consists of rolls and fresh baked bread made with Guylian chocolate dough, orange juice and a hot chocolate or choice of other beverages. Tri Piroga(Three Pies) is another interesting patisserie and chocolate boutique.

Wednesday 27 August 2008

INDOOR CHOCOLATE?

Interesting trends in Jakarta worth noting! Restaurateurs tell me that more people are staying at home these days. More people are staying home these days, say the Movie people. In my area more people are buying DVDs.

Adding up I wondered if these trends were doing anything to chocolate. A retailer who didn't want to be named said,that in the last three months sales of moulded chocolates had gone up be 12%. Chocolate confectionery multi-packs upped by nearly 5%. So are soft drinks, snacks(modern and local).

The general opinion is that more people are tending to stay home, and enjoy in-home entertainment, rather than go out for "expensive" diversions.

Cross selling, said the retailer, would be an ideal strategy to take advantage of this trend.

Small and home businesses can also cash in on this trend.

SOME DOWNSIDES ELSEWHERE

Prices of chocolate bars and snacks are trending upwards in US and Europe and we fear it may trickle down here in Indonesia. The reasons are the higher prices of nuts, cocoa and fuel of course. Mars and Hersheys have pushed up prices by 12% and 11% respectively. Cadbury in the Pacific Region, closer home, has announced downsizing to refocus on their chocolate business.

INTERESTING TEAM-UP

An interesting team-up has been brought to my attention with an email. A strategy and a concept use able on a small scale or big. This one is very big. It has nothing to do with chocolate but it is interesting for chocoholics to think about.

Unilever, Pepsi-Co and Starbucks have joined forces to produce Ready-To-Drink teas.
Of course I don't mean that chocoholics and chocolatiers should look at team-ups to produce something as mundane as chocolate drinks but something things chocolate that are sparse on our shelves.

Tuesday 26 August 2008

CHOCOLATE FOR MORONS?

Many food companies, including chocolates, advertise to children and teens. After all they are the ideal advertising audience. They are receptive, influential with their friends and parents, and have a whole lifetime of purchasing ahead of them.

Recently, parents have been worried about the influence of advertising on obesity among children. In some parts of the world food companies have complied with regulatory bodies on the content of advertisements that are aimed at children. Obesity is also a problem that the parents can help with by supervising the calorie and type of food intake of their children.

What is really difficult is when food companies advertising, including that of chocolate, influence children to be "fatheads"- plain dumb!This is more difficult for parents to control or tackle because it often needs complex explanations.

This week, I saw the most moronic chocolate wafer television advertisement ever. On prime children's time. This 30 second advertisement showed an imbecile, unshaven and obviously unwashed,being fed in bed by two giggling women, on strawberries dipped in chocolate. It didn't seem to do much for the imbecile as he continued to have a blissful imbecilic expression throughout. The advertisement was for a strawberry flavoured chocolate wafer.

Can you imagine chocolate that is scientifically proven to improve the cognitive and learning shills seems to have had no effect on the manufacturer, the advertising agency or the cast in this television advertisement. Obviously an imitation.

Here,s where the manufacturer and his agency has misread their audience. A child of five is already deft with the computer. He or she has been exposed to good tasteful programmes on television(if parents are wisely choosing the channels and programmes).
They can rationalise, they can evaluate, they can be unreceptive if they choose.A bad advertisement is a rude and ugly intrusion into a child's experience.

An advertisement, especially on television is bad when it is cheap to look at. Obviously cheap to produce. When it is ugly. When it is untrue.
It is bad when it conveys no message of value,or is confusing or irrational message to a child or a teen.And when it does the product undeserving harm.
It is bad especially when it undermines the child's belief on what is good from all his or her points of view.

There are fortunately very good chocolate and chocolate candy ads with slick, easy messages. It's not too difficult for right down, chocolate is the ideal taste for a fun and relaxing moment. It's a clean, every body's environment friendly story.

CHOCOLATE AND MUSIC.

A email from a classical music lover asked me to say something in my Blog about the Brahms Concert by our famous Nusantara Symphony Orchestra tonight. Why, I asked. Because, she said that people who read my blogs in Jakarta, were not just chocoholics but classical music lovers. I was tremendously flattered of course. Why why not, so far chocolate has been associated with many of the good things of life.

The Nusantara Symphony Orchestra is our oldest, most famous, orchestra in Indonesia. It has enjoyed much acclaim from visiting conductors and music ans. Tonight the Orchestra will be conducted by the eclectic Hikotaro Yazaki. Yazaki who impacted this region for his recent taking the Requiem to new emotive heights in the memory of Princess Galyani of Thailand.

Tonight's concert will present Brahms Piano Concerto No1, Opus15, in D Major and Symphony No2 Opus73 in D major.

The pianist is Jun Komatsu, graduate of the New England Conservatory of Music, Boston. She as you may know is also the winner of the Palma d'Or.

Discreet enjoyment of chocolate will not be frowned upon. Don't take noisy packaging with you.

There are some connections of chocolate and music. I am not stretching to make a point. Both are known to be relaxing to the brain. Both stimulate some kind of brain activity(you have already heard of the Mozart Effect).Classical Music it is claimed, offers short-term improvements to the spatio-temporal reasoning. Chocolate rich in flavonals encourages learning and memorising. Music researchers say has transformational powers in health, education and well being. The same has indeed been said of chocolate.Both Classical Music and Chocolate make you better disposed towards others and towards the world in general.

So do attend tonight's concert. And come back home and have a hot cocoa.

Monday 25 August 2008

HEALTHY EATING FOR CHILDREN

I had a very interesting email from the United Kingdom from educator Georg Janssen who is involved at school level on the project I am going to describe below.

In early 2007, Northern Foods, Nestle and Cargill funded a primary school project called "PhunkyFoods." This is a curriculum based programme which provides weekly lesson plans for children in primary school groups.All lesson materials are written and developed by nutritionists and educationalists. The funding partners are not involved in the formulation of lessons at all.

The purpose is to help children in their current and future well-being and health.They will be guided to start off in life with a better understanding of healthy eating and the importance of active and balanced lifestyles. Without loosing out on the fun aspects of eating and snacking.

Georg tells that naturally an emphasis is placed on the snacks children tend to buy themselves with pocket money or which parents buy on supermarket trips. The programme actually began trials in 2005. The Northern Foods, Nestle and Cargill began their funding, after noting the success of the project, in 2007.

Health trends among chocolatiers in the UK seem to be gathering force. In September 8, this year Cadbury will launch Dairy Milk Canberry and Granola and Dairy Milk Apricot Crumble bars. The new flavours were selected with consumer insights into health, taste and nutritional and energy values.

On snacks Pringle has launched Rice Infusions, Hula Hoops have come up with Multigrain. Kit Kat, introduced, or will do so shortly, bring out Red Berry, Mango and Passion Fruit. Rowntree will launch more sugar-free snacks by using natural flavours and colours.

In Indonesia researchers says that there is more concern on health issues particularly on that of children.Principals of schools have shown concern of increasing cases of obesity among children under 10years. Some have indicated high interest in a regular curriculum based programme in primary schools on healthy eating and snacking.It will certainly be kicked off in October in the school which my children attend.

An additional prat of the curriculum, tried here in Indonesia, will be on how not to be "priced out" of healthy eating and snacking. This is naturally focused on low-income families or those with tight budgets.

Friday 22 August 2008

DOES MICHAEL PHELPS EAT CHOCOLATE?

Like all chocoholics i wondered about multiple gold medallist, swimmer, Michael Phelps' training diet and if it included chocolate. It was no easy task to track down this information but finally with a spot of luck I got it from the Sunday Times correspondent.

Michael Phelps daily intake is, believe it or not, 12,000 calories. Six times that of an average male requirement.His breakfast seems to be, as it should, his biggest and most important meal. It consisted of servings that included, porridge, three fried eggs, a five egg omelets, fried onion, lettuce and tomato sandwiches, French Toast and, here it comes three chocolate chip pancakes. He does not seem to consume any dessert for lunch or dinner.

I wont go into the recipe of the Phelps pancakes here. But no doubt, they being honest-to-goodness pancakes, will contain among the other ingredients, eggs, butter, buttermilk and probably a very liberal sprinkling of chocolate chips. A nutritionist tells that that one such pancake, wide as the inside of a plate would be around 300 to 350 calories.

All this brings to mind that the Swiss eat the most amount of chocolate in the world, nearly11kg per person per year. Wonder where Roger Federer gets his energy from? And very pleased to see that he is certainly not obese.

Thursday 21 August 2008

AFFORDABLE LUXURY CHOCOLATE.

I was just beginning to get seriously worried that chocolate will indeed be beyond the wallets of ordinary Joes, when I recalled Steven De Vries. Chocoholics will know De Vries as the man who took chocolate a hundred years back at his factory and shop in Denver Colorado, USA. A long way from Java Island but his existence is reassuring.

De Vires began by working closely with small plantations in Mexico, Costa Rica and Venezuela. Being a small artisan manufacturer he goes directly to small growers with very good beans. But in such small quantities that they don't interest the big manufacturers who have to buy big. De Vries goes to growers that grow on ten acres or less and produce one to two tons of dried beans per year.

He hit upon the artisan technique when he was in Costa Rica seven years ago. He brought back 30 kilos of dried beans in his bags. He roasted some in his oven. Peeled them by hand and ground them in an old grain grinder. The chocolate that emerged was gritty but full of "complex" flavours that he had never tasted before. He decided that he was not going to miss out in the "complexity and intensity" of these chocolate flavours in the production of his chocolates.

De Vires inspired by his "discovery" took classes in chocolate making in California, scoured libraries throughout the country and all the way to Amsterdam and Spain. He visited dozens of chocolate factories. He says that he discovered that the people who made the best chocolates used the oldest equipment. With slower operating speeds and lower temperatures the old machines, he says, nurture flavour development.

De Vries monitors the first crucial points of processing. He does not want the beans ever to be rushed. Fermentation and sun drying stretches over two weeks. Later low temperatures and slow roasting preserve the aromas that can be burned up by high temperatures. De Vries then winnows cracked shells by hand to avoid husk being blended with the chocolate.

De Vries's recipe is simple:77 percent cocoa. The rest is sugar."Dark and intense," says a reviewer,"it pushes the upper limits of portability." Lately he has begun to age his blocks of chocolate for two months before releasing them for sale.

In tasting sessions at Berkeley California, De Vries chocolate took top spots over the big, big names.

At the moment he has been sourcing from Mexico, Venezuela and Costa Rica. But he says, he is certain that many more flavours are currently available. I have made it a point to email him about cocoa beans in our region.

He has not blended beans yet. He says he has his hands full with single origin cocoas at the moment.

Finally, what does De Vries chocolates cost? He told an interviewer once that"Chocolate is the only product where the difference between a run-of-the-mill chocolate bar and the best chocolate is only about five bucks."

And since he says his aim is to make the best chocolate in the world, it is certainly reassuring for us ordinary Joes. It is wonderful if great chocolate can remain egalitarian.

Tuesday 19 August 2008

SWEET SEPTEMBER IN SHANGHAI

September is confectionery month in China. From 3rd to 5th September, three Fairs take place simultaneously in Shanghai: International Sweet & SnackTec China, Sweet China and World of Food China.

Four hundred and Fifty suppliers will be showing off their products and services over a 20,000 square meter exhibition space. The last such event in 2007 attracted 8,143 trade visitors from 69 countries. It featured 41 exhibiting companies from 9 countries.

The concept of holding events in parallel is based on the successful model of the ISM and ProSweets in Cologne.

German Sweets, VBZ(netherlands)OSEC(Switzerland)and the Japan Confectionery Association will make presentations at the Fair. Also participating are South Korea and the Malaysian Cocoa Board.

Very valuable synergy effects are beginning to rise from this parallel scheduling. The Fair also serves to draw attention of China manufacturers and Internationals based in China and Chinese exports initiatives the hinterland significance of South East Asia as the nearest and possibly the best supplier of raw and finished products and ingredients. Chinese importers can take advantage of free trade agreements between China and ASEAN.

With China's Chocolate confectionery market projected to climb 50% to $1.23billion by 2012, the demand for offshore ingredients and even consumer finished products is going to be significant.

Sales of these products are particularly high between November and Chinese New Year. Nearly 40 percent of total confectionery sales are for occasion gifts such as Christmas, Weddings, birthdays, Chinese New Year and of course Valentine's Day.

According to the Global Agriculture Information Network and USDA reports, the biggest markets are for speciality products with focus on Speciality Confectionery and Functional Confectionery. This is more evident along China's East coast.

The reports notes that demand for Functional Confectionery is due to the rise of diabetics- the unfortunate consequence to high income life style diets.

Vitamins, nuts, herbal ingredients are in demand. The Chinese consumer favours less sweet and less milky confectionery. Small elegant packaging is preferred with one or two pieces of candy or chocolates.This will allow weight conscious women women to restrict themselves. It is also preferred by parents who are conscious about their children's calorie intake.

US products are not popular due to their shorter shelf life and high sugar content.

We know that Indonesia has the resources both in processed ingredients and finished goods to meet China big appetite in all categories of chocolate confectionery needs.In recent months there have been encouraging announcements of more processing plants and even plantations to be set up to meet future requirements. While existing processors aim to increase output. We will have approximately a harvest of 790,000 tonnes to process this year.

China's appetite will set in motion tremendous surge in research and development of tastes, flavours, textures, recipes, nutrition and energy needs.This will require manufacturers here in Indonesia to look towards the development of more sophistication, combining science, technology and enterprise.

Indonesia is the fourth largest coffee producer with an expected output of some 687,450tonnes in 2008. Hopefully we will play a part in the Fairs'Coffee and Tea Zone.Not forgetting that these products are natural allies to cocoa.
But this is outside the scope of this Blog for the time being.

Monday 18 August 2008

INDONESIA CELEBRATES.

Indonesia celebrated it 63rd anniversary of Independence on Sunday 17Th August. In my community there was a lot of chocolate at our Traditional Foods Bazaar which was the main part of our celebrations. I sold 56 bars of Silver Queen Chunky(my best ever record in 6 hours) which is a 100gm long corrugated bar with lots of bite and mouth feel. Other stalls sold homemade chocolate tarts,chocolate biscuits,chocolate rice buns and various other chocolate pastries.

I paused a bit to consider,was chocolate really a traditional Indonesian food? I sell Silver Queen(among others), the brand which has dominated this market for over 50 years. There are numerous home industries that have been operating with chocolate for years.According to a manufacturer of chocolate ingredients, they have a list of over16,000 such industries in five major cities in Java. I have even had the privilege of visiting some of them recently. Traditions of chocolate at home and hearth are strong.

This country provides,what the World Cocoa Foundation says, is "an efficient, good quality 'bulk' beans and products supplier to World Markets." Their figures also say that we provide 16% of the World's Cocoa and Cocoa products market.

It is not perhaps a well known that the Petra Foods Group which has several manufacturing units in Indonesia( the Group,s heritage has strong Indonesian roots) is the third largest manufacturer of cocoa products in the world.

Exports of cocoa products by Indonesian processors is worldwide. BT Cocoa regularly supplies Cargill, Unicom International, Theobroma. Olam, Barry Callebaut among others.

Indonesian products even go to South America, if you forgive my cliche, is rather like shipping coals to Newcastle. A full circle completes! In the late 16 Century cocoa arrived from Caracas, Venezuela from Indonesia.

Indonesia cocoa development programmes include Farmer Field Schools, CPB Control, Applied Research. Pilot Activities Scaling up Successful Innovations and Improving Farm Level Incomes, Productivity and Quality.It may be possible that by 2020 Production could could double to one million metric tonnes, supplying a fifth of World market requirements.

I am a little envious of Vietnam's programme with the WCF Partnership. Here Long Lam University with WCF Funding has programmes of germplasm,breeding and setting up of demonstration plots on cocoa-agro systems.Plantations in Java have implemented cocoa-agro systems growing vanilla and other crops alongside cocoa. But it can be more wide spread and growing with research and technology guidance.

It must also be noted that Indonesian cocoa meets all the ethical and moral requirements of world trading.

Friday 15 August 2008

WHAT REALLY IS JAVA?

I had a few emails asking for more information on Java. And why is it so important, in my opinion,to chocolate? Well here is a lesson on Java.

It"s one of the 17,000 island of Indonesia. The most populated. About 124 million people live on this island which is approximately the size of the United Kingdom. It is 1300 km long and 300km broad at the widest point. It has a very impressive mountain range as a backbone with volcanoes; some live, some simmering and some dormant. This much perhaps, and the tourist attractions,you can get from the Internet if you search for Java, Indonesia.

But what the Internet does not tell you is that almost 60% of the Javanese are engaged in some way or other, big, medium and small, in the industry of preparing food to sell. Everyone in Java knows, some one involved in the food industry. My wife sells chocolates(of course) and recently health foods.Her uncle is in fried rice. Her aunt makes tempe. A C Neilsen, will give you nice categories of occupations which they say occupy the Javanese. But they don't mention the numbers engaged in the food industry.

Along any street in Java you see carts, makeshift tents, little hole in the wall establishments offering straight from the pan absolutely superb assortment of foods with intriguing combinations of tastes, flavours and textures and immensely satisfying for prices no more that $2.

Javanese work very hard at it. The street out of the housing complex, I live in,springs to life at 4am with offers of porridge, soups, noodles and rice dishes, the flavours and tastes of which,I guarantee, Ferran Adria or Heston Blumenthol, could not possibly imagine.

These establishments are depleted of their stock by 9am. At 11am a new crop,of similar establishments spring up to serve lunch. A bigger bunch of restaurants now winding into side lanes and car park spring up for dinner. Some switch menus at 11pm to serve some innovative suppers till 2am. You see this happenning all over Java.

These are separate from the posh air conditioned and chic sidewalk cafes, restaurant which often reach to the heavens of fine dining. There are in Jakarta, the capital city, over 3000 such institutions. This does not include McDonalds, Dunking Donuts, KFCs, Burger King, Wendy, etc etc.

Java is also home to the world largest instant noodle industry. Coming soon, the instant rice-porridge industry. All with a fascinating array of flavours and mixes.

Then there are the small snack industries; Home enterprises that compete with the numbers bakeries. I believe that Bandung, a hilltop city, about two hours drive from Jakarta, is the world's cap[ital of snacks. I all my travel I have never seen such a variety of snacking foods, baked, fried or steamed.

It is possible for each Javanese entrepreneur to stay in business, support their families(some send their sons and daughters to US and Australian universities to specialise or learn new trades) and be competitive because the backyard is simply alive and bristling with appropriate resources.

Java for centuries was the hub of the Spice Islands.Here exists every spice known to man, cloves, herbs,flavours, aromas, sugars, medicinal plants and other culinary treasures. There are notorious recipes from almost each of the 17,000 islands. There are also resources from the seas that surround these islands and 360million chickens strutting around.

Here came, among others, Ptolemy and Marco Polo. Indian, Arabs, Chinese, Malays, the Portuguese, Dutch and the English came. Nearly all of them stay long enough to blend their cuisines with the Javanese. The result is that there is lot to be inventive on.

Many of the recipes have been copied and taken inside the posh restaurants where they have been prepared with the "finest ingredients money can buy". But is not the same as sitting on precarious bum-hurting stools, under a canvas roof,with the perspiring cooking stirring up your breakfast or dinner, in a noisy sizzling wok hidden under a aromatic haze of smoke. So many of those copy cats have dropped out of the race and tried Italian or Turkish.

Coming back to chocolate, what makes Java so special is the unique soil of Java, the mighty amount of culinary resources and the inspiring inventiveness that hangs around like a holy aura. This is an ideal chocolate laboratory.

Java chocolate has made a small impact on the world scene. I particularly like a review on the l'artisan de Chocolate's Java. 72% cocoa. "An Indonesian on the wild side. Unlike anything in the chocolate world. Components of leather and bizarre peaty flavours.Suggestion of smoke and tobacco." Spicy and Satin smooth.

What possibilities and opportunities to start from.

Wednesday 13 August 2008

WHAT'S WRONG WITH CHOCOLATE CAFES AND SHOPS?

Chocolate cafes and shops, it would seem, out here anyway, have a high mortality rate.I have noticed this in Sydney(Australia), Singapore and also here in Jakarta. They come and go. At the best they linger on painfully or worse boringly.

Just the other I took a quick look at some outlets in Singapore. An extreme chocoholic I usually am enticed by chocolate cafes. But rarely go in preferring to watch surreptitiously. Perhaps it is because i preferred to keep this wonderful passion private. So as it often happens, late in life rather than sooner, I wandered into several. These are my conclusions:

1)I was overwhelmed with chocolate and thoroughly confused. At one place I was proudly told that there were more than 60 varieties. Another boasted of over 50. There were chocolates from almost everywhere. Green tea figured prominently.

2)The ambiance was exactly, I am afraid,what you would expect of a gourmet chocolate shop. Not quite comfortable and a trifle uneasy to be in.The service to a introvert like me was intimidating. It was, it seems, assumed that I was a chocolate moron. Which I rather resented because I was a chocolate expert having eaten chocolate daily for sheer pleasure for at least 40 years.I should know more about chocolate than people who simply make it.

3)I kept wondering if I should eat more than two and run the risk of ruining my appetite for a extremely promising Singapore lunch. The two I tasted where probably not top of the range of 60 or 50. In the late afternoon I wondered whether I should try one more and ruin a very promising Singapore dinner.

4)Somehow it didn't seem to be the right places to be in at the time. It kept on bring out a sense of launching into over indulgence.


One of my stops was at Max Brenner. It was like the other cafes, sparsely populated by customers. A powerful sense of chocolate and many choices. I felt, too much. With a lean Jakarta wallet, I also found it rather pricey. The first thing you notice here, is the lack of a friendly, chocolaty service.

Max and Brenner(two guys actually) didn't rate very high with customers. As many said they would definitely not come back as those who said they would. Both numbers were less that 20%. The others I visit did rate too well either. Out of 10, they like Max Brenner averaged at a polite 6.

If I were to start a Chocolate Cafe/Shop this is what I would do:

1) I would focus on a few specialities. Cakes, pastries and pralines These would be simply devastatingly superb. The menu would require no more space than a playing card.They would stay on the menu for as long as.....I will keep that a secret.

2)The shop will display no chocolate in glasses cases. I think to display wonderful
dignified chocolate behind glass is being rude to chocolate.

3) Instead I would have a superb minimalistic modern kitchen/factory open behind
floor to ceiling glass where customers may watch the real mystical excitement of chocolate being carefully crafted in splendid special masterpieces.

4)The place will be comfortable. Practical with white table linen and sparkling tableware.Providing a dignified setting to chocolate.
5)Beverages will be offered. A few. Specials of course. Not just chocolate but also tea, coffee and wine. I may experiment with one or two juice cocktails.

6)Service would be limited because the range offered is limited. But expert, brisk and friendly.

7) There will be a small in number and small in portion food menu, of other than chocolate. Emphasis o fish. So that customers can enjoy their chocolate as dessert if that is what they prefer. Of course if they simply have chocolate and well chosen wine. With cheese.

8) There will be no distractions. Customers will be encouraged to discover the art of interesting conversation with each other.

Do I have a model? Yeas I was impressed by one place I visited. They had only three types of cake. All Chocolate, Chocolate Banana Cake and Rum, Cherry and Chocolate. There were also three ice creams. All were superb. Yes I bought all three cakes(to take away).Rating of this place was high. They got an overall 8. Actually 10 for ambiance and 8.8 for service. It was called Awfully Chocolate and was at Vivocity, Singapore. I was told they have two outlets in Jakarta. I have yet to visit.

Tuesday 12 August 2008

FAMOUS CHOCOLATE THIS WEEK

I consider worth mention because it combines dark milk chocolate with goji berries and salt. Made by Vosges Haut-Chocolate is is called Vosges Goji Exotic. Vosges claim on their pack that their chocolates take you through a sensory journey of awareness of indigenous cultures through spices, herbs, roots, flowers, nuts and the obscure with chocolate. Now goji berries.

Goji berries, or the genuine one are found in Tibet and in areas of China. They have been known for centuries to increase energy levels, quality of sleep, mental activity, calness and concentration. They were used for 2500 years for anti-aging. What more do you want.

Vosges Goji Exotic is 41% cocoa, dark and milk chocolate and PINK HIMALAYAN SALT!
Vosges uses various salts for their chocolate such as smoked saltand grey sea salt. They have also used smoked bacon in their Vosges Bacon Exotic.I have emailed them about our own Java Sea Salt that come in rock crystals and Bali Salt.

Monday 11 August 2008

CHUAO VS JAVA.

Laughable of course to most chocolatiers. Chuao comes from a plantation in Choroni, along Venezeula's Caribbean coast. That much I knew. To get more Paul Lewis, a writer with the Guardian, who travelled to Choroni, helped.

As you approach this village in a large valley, the arid scent of fermenting beans shows you the way. A small pretty village of nicely painted houses and a church. They produce about 20 tonnes of cocoa beans a year. It costsabout $12 a kilo. It is a cash windfall for the families that live here. I some places bits that trickle out are sold for about $15 a kilo. The chocolate that it produces is sold for about $20 per 50gm.

Chuao is genetically "pure" Criollo". It was in the early stages abadoned in favour of the more hardy forastero bean. Pure Criollo softer, more aromatic,was neglected. But experts say that this species, like gold dust, still thrives in rainforests in Madagascar, the Carribbean islands and Mexico.

It used to be believed that Chuao has something in the soil, a unique combination of minerals.But it is more likely that the secret of Chuao beans is its inherited methods of growth, fermentation and drying. It is also people. They do as they have been doing for hundreds of years. They keep it small.

It makes me envious. I recall a plantation i recently visited near Ciajur, near Bandung. AS you approach the scent of fermenting beans overwhelms you. Very vinigarish.

Java riollo, as is planted here is also known as red Java. It was imported from Caracas, Venezuela in 1888. This plantation produced about 900kg a ha. With a total crop of 15 tons. In a wet year the crop could be more. Here it certainly looks like the methods of growing, fermenting and drying hasnt changed for years.

Does any great chocolatier use Java. I asked the best I know, Bonnat who produce atop the French Chartreuse Alps.One of the oldest factories in the world. Indeed they use Java cocoa. They produce a 100gm chocolate bar called Bonnat Java 65% Dark Milk Chocolate which is described as "a powerful blond cocoa coming from the Indonesian island of Java. The taste is unique with a creamy sensation on your palate,"

I suspect Java cocoa needs more PR.

Sunday 10 August 2008

CHOCOLATE GOES EAST?

I was gripped by Bill Emmott's admonishment of Barrack Obama,in last week's Sunday Times, "Europe is for wimps. Tough guys go East."

My mind being one track related it to things chocolate and cocoa. Indeed it seems that chocolate is trending East Ironically it seems that most of the moves are made by the Europeans proving perhaps they are less wimp than we may be.

"Chocolate Challenges" Report says that chocolate consumption in Asia Pacific is growing at a rate of 25% a year. Manufacturers from the West are using new strategies to introduce their products and strategic tie-ups with local networks.

Cadbury, Nestle, Dove, Golden Monkey, Hershey"s have already established local ties. Barry Callebaut starts production with a capacity of 25,000 tonnes at Suzhou. This city is close to Shanghai where chocolate consumption per head is one kg(China per head is 100gm).

China, interesting also seems to go for quality. A new legislation will require that products with more than 5% vegetable fat will need to be labelled as containing cocoa substitutes.

Confectionery New Product Development reports that in 2007, 30% of new confectionery was launched in Asia Pacific second to Europe with 30%.Asia now stands at 17% of the world's cocoa consumption. If forecasts are right the chocolate cultural hub should move somewhere East.

Switzerland is the hub of the chocolate eating world. If it moves East where it it be?China, India, Singapore? I think the answer is coming to be clearer. It must be Indonesia.

Yesterday Merrill Lynch"s Lionel Neave announced the launch of the Gulamerah Fund. Though the name implies Palm Sugar, the Fund is all about chocolate. It aims at raising S$30million to plant cocoa plantations in Java, around Sukabumi(150years there were cocoa plantations here), Jember(close to the Cocoa Research Station) and elsewhere. Neave has been very successful in Cambodia with other crops.

Also not so long ago the Minister of Trade Mari Elka Pangestu(who is reported to love chocolate) announced that Indonesia will work with the Association of Chocolate, Biscuit and Confectionery Industries of the European Union(COABISCO) in developing cocoa based industries here. COABISCO recently visited Indonesian cocoa plantations and cocoa based industries here.

In Feburary Antara reported that PT. Uniflora would invest $2billion in a cocoa processing plant, in Serang, Banten.

These ambitions are not new. Three year ago Piter Jasman , Chairman of the Indonesian Cocoa Association(Askindo)proposed that cocoa exports look east towards ASEAN and China, pointing out that they are nearer and have large populations, with obviously great appetites for chocolate.

Indonesia is ideally placed to be the cocoa/chocolate hub, both functionally and culturally, in the Asia Pacific region. Indonesia produces about 450,000 MT of cocoa each year. About $700million in value. The country is the third largest producer of cocoa in the world. About 400,000 smallholders working on an average of 0.5ha to 1.5ha earn their livelihoods from cocoa. Eighty-five percent of Indonesian cocoa is grown in Sulawesi. The beans exports are unfermented, bulk beans and low cost and is used as a filler with fermented beans by chocolate manufacturers. Some have learned to use it skillfully.

The government has kept a hands off policy with cocoa and that ha actually befefitted the Indonesian farmer who can expect 75-85% profit from export prices as opposed to West African farmers who earn 50-60%.

Indonesia has very competitive advantages. It closer to the vast cocoa and chocolate potential.It has low cost high production capacity, efficient infrastructure and open trading. The cocoa value chain has also experienced phenomenal growth in the last decade. The free trade agreement between China and ASEAN will also be an advantage.

Java has the technology, science, the resources for innovation, expertise and experience and some of the giants in cocoa processing and chocolate manufacturing.

Java bring procurement closer to suppliers and manufacturers located closer to their markets. It then becomes cost beneficial.

We also have an appropriate location, historically rich Jogjakarta , a confluence of many cultures and one capable of absorbing a chocolate too. Surrounded by notable universities, an creative population and a very popular governor. Wat does it entail?

1) It requires learning. Setting up a Faculty of Chocolate at a university. To study the enormous possibilities of chocolate globally and towards the development of tastes, textures and flavours appealing to consumers in Asia Pacific, with focus on using backyard resources. And growing with trends because chocolate and cocoa development will never slow down.

For the university it can turn into commercial possibilities. Charles Stuart University in Australia made their own wine and cheese. And enterprisingly export their products.

2) Create a kind of Astor Center (modelled after New York"s)where the finest chocolate, food, nutrition experts can discourse share and demonstrate all aspects of their passion.

3) Set up a interactive, taste and experience oriented chocolate museum. Probably on location in a plantation.

4) Set up a carefully studied and researched chocolate cafe with franchise possibility. Carefully because it can be a venture fraught with some discouraging problems as Max Brenner in Singapore is experiencing.

5)Relate to the tourist industry and export potential of resources gained.

I will take up each of these points in future blogs.
It is a simple and feasible start and I hope some initiatives come along.

Wednesday 6 August 2008

CHOCOLATE AT THE OLYMPICS

At what is going to be the grandest Olympics ever, Chocolate will be participating. Snickers has been appointed the Official Chocolate of the Beijing Olympics. This rich chocolate bar studded generously with peanuts will provide athletes, officials and spectators will the energy they are going to need. In Indonesia, Snickers distributed by Nirwana Lestari, will in Indonesia shy away from any publicity.

The China English Language Daily reports the some athletes have included chocolate as part of their training diet. Among them are swimmers, Australian Libby Trickett and American Katie Nott. The latter preferring a peanut-brittle bar coated with chocolate.

The Swiss Embassy will be holding a chocolate exhibition of their products during the Games. Hershey's, though not officially connected will be running an interesting and involving promotion supporting the US athletes, called"Taste of Victory".

George Bush, getting int right, send off the US Olympic team with a dinner at the White House.
For dessert the President served the "Chocolate Olympic Torch"- a dark chocolate tart with raspberries and a brown-sugar Olympic flame.

CNN reports that taxi drivers in Beijing have nicknamed the city, "Chocolate City" because of the large presence of Africans.

In the meantime chocolate consumption in China is increasing, according to conservative estimates at 8% per annum, and by 15% by other estimates. With the current percapita consumption at 100-150gm there is obviously great opportunities. In Shanghai it is one kilogram of chocolate per head per year. If the Chinese in the Eastern, affluent seaboard cities alone, eat as much chocolate as the Japanese(2.2kg) chocolatiers will have a potential of 800,000 metrics tons of chocolate per year.

That's why Barry Callebaut has set up a factory there(operational this year). That is why BT Cocoa of Indonesia have smartly networked themselves in the China chocolate market also taking advantage of the removal of import taxes.

The China chocolate market as a whole is the second biggest in the region, after Japan. China Food Industries says that the annual consumption worth CNY3billion is projected to reach CNY20billion(about USSIbillion) by 2012.

If this figure is reached it will make China the Gold Medal winner of the world chocolate race.

Sunday 3 August 2008

FAMOUS CHOCOLATE THIS WEEK.

The chocolate dessert atop the dessert list at Fat Duck currently is Delice of Chocolate which everyone knows is Chocolate Sorbet cumin caramel.

I cant off hand tell you what the recipe is. But judging from Heston Blumenthol's masterpieces, it will be very simple but skillfully prepared. So the chocolate will turn out as if it were made in heaven

The difference in this sorbet is the cumin caramel. Blumentol usuaaly turns out a better caramel than mortals. Blended to this is probably cumin seeds, roasted in a dry pan. This will deliver a impactful cumin flavour to the caramel.

You can imagine the result when it crackles with the sorbet.

Finally I got to taste a morsel from the revered Pierre Marcolini. Some chocoholics may have heared of his exquisite lookingFor sexily tickling taste buds I persume. chocolate heart with gold leaf packed in a box worthy of Tiffany,which replaced diamonds last Valentine's day.

What I got to taste, with compliments from a pasrty chef at Ritz Carlton, Marshmally cube , handmade I was told, with chocolates fragments and sprinkled with little sparks of chocolate.
Marshmallows are difficult to get in Jakarta. But this was not the usual stuff you get. It has more of a light jelly texture. It is French in orgin and called guimauve. I was offered it as part of a dessert. But I chose to eat it srraight and eyed the bag in which it arrived. The chef quickly placed it in his desk draw.

Pierre Marcolini's signature chocolate I am told is a blend of beans from Java and Venezuela.
There are nine varieties of Venezulan beans. But I suspect the bean he uses is Chuao. A hybrid of Trinitaro and Criollo. It is very assertive, sharp, plummy, with hints of molasses. It should blend, I guess well with the light bodied Java.

And talking about Chuao, it is also the brand name of the chocolate of Venezuelan brothers Michael and Richard Antonosri. Ferran Adria, of El Bulli, says it is the best in the world. Their Par Con CHocolate Burbon is filled with roasted Panko bread crumbs in olive oil with a pinch of sea salt. Next week I will tell you about their ancient Mayan chocolate chocolate recipes, if a friend at Four Seasons keeps his promise.