Life is tough out there for all of us. Some people consider it frivolous of me to keep on blogging about chocolate. Well for lots of us, both those who produce chocolate and those that eat chocolate, life is still has some joys. Christmas may not see turkey on our tables, but there will be chicken at least and chocolate pudding at the end.With glasses of home-made wine. It is going to be sustainable years for chocolatiers from 2009 on. Chocolate trends that have begun in a small way during the last decade are favourably gathering momentum.
1) Chocolate is being less regarded as a snack. It is now being respected as a food. There is no need to elaborate of the nutritional and health benefits of chocolate, they are already well known. Large companies like Nestle and Mars have very responsibly begun to move with these trends. In time manufacturers will make demands on suppliers to provide types of chocolate that are aimed at the "chocolate-food" market.
2)Artisans are becoming a major force in chocolate. Artisans with "there are more horizons" atitude are leading the trend rather than those who are mired down by traditional and dour thinking. Artisans in the US are taking the lead. The grouping of Art Pollard, Shawn Askinosie, Alex Whitmore(Taza)DeVries, Alan McClure(Patric) will undoubtly grow in numbers and in setting some exciting trends. Surely Tim Childs, Pierre Marcolini, Ramon Morato(Chocovic),Michael Cluize among others will soon join the ranks. I hope they let Clothilde Dusoulier join too for being, if not a pure artisan, the best looking chocolatier in the world.
Here in Indonesia there are a small group of artisans producing some great chocolate too. We have vast potential to grow in numbers and skills using our own resources.
3)The focus of the cocoa BEAN will shift from the Americas and Africa to South East Asia. And I hope to even parts of north Australia.From Vietnam to the Northern Territory of Australia to Vanuatu,lies vast unexplored resources for great cocoa. There are no less than half a million plantations within this area. The soils and climate of this region undoubtly produce some of the best flavours and sensations waiting to be discovered. The adventure of discovery of cocoa is endless. I hope the artisans from the United States, and Europe, with pack their rucksacks and come here. Let me assure you that in this area there are no adverse issues on Fair Trade nor Child Labour. You can go searching with a clear conscience.
4)Premium Chocolate segment is growing. Though now only 10 percent of the total chocolate market and about $12.9billion in value, Nestle estimates that it will soon grow to $14 billion. Growth of premium chocolate in 2007 over 2006 was 18%. Premium chocolate is steadily encroaching on and influencing the mainstream. In effect this means that mainstream will have to seeks news ways to convert chocolate from a snack, often frivolous, to a god healthy food. The Food Services industry will also be demanding not just great taste, but also great goodness and suitable credentials.
5)That Belgian chocolate is the best in the world will be relegated to the book of myths. The widely held belief, particularly among the Swiss, that Swiss chocolate is inimitable will be of no consequence. European chocolate with have to revent itself with a promise of "adventure" in every bite.Verona is sitting too contentedly on its laurels and Lindt has caught the "drift" and making some tentative forays.Spain is the exception and continues to show flair and passion.Having brought chocolate to Europe in the 16th century they have the responsibility to revent chocolate for the rest of Europe.
New Tree says it's Belgian Chocolate. Thought it has broken away from the dour traditions of Belgium Chocolate and have launched a very innovative range that may point the way to the future of marketing and even pricing chocolate.
6)The next artisans will be adventurers. They may be Asian or others. For Asians the good beans, exciting beans, are in their own backyard. The experienced and adventurous Americans, must expand their horizons. Some merely have scratched the surface in Asia-Pacific.But pottering around is not real adventure and often results in inaccuracies or simply with convenient stories.But at least it has been a tentative poke into the unknown.
7) Innovation, some of which was seen at the recent HIE show in Paris, is the next big word in chocolate after Adventure. Natra, of Spain has made some early entry inby adding Omega-3 and fibre. Conveniently Natra owns 50% stake in the Natraceutical Group. There is a promise of more to come, not just in health aspects but also in tastes and flavour surprises, or all three.
8)Should cocoa continue to be classified as Criollo, Forestero and Trinitano? Or should we start classifying cocoa,rationally, according to origin? Is Criollo still to be consdered as the superior bean? The debate will begin and my guess is that we go will go the wine way.
9)Mainstream chocolate will become smaller, chunkier,milk rich or cocoa rich, healthy of course, nutritious and need-occassion targeted(as opposed to youth-occassion targeted).Natra-Natraceutical type alliances may help. Appeal not just to the mouth but also to the intellect.
10)It will all begin at the farm.With happy,coco-wise, chocolate-wise,farmers. Farmers admit to being somewhat intimidated by the "big guys".So this is precisely i where farmers,artisans, the small bakers, horeca,home industries,smaller processors and manufacturers and others can all work towards interesting, involved and personalised relationships.
11)There is one more. Start a trend. Get your children interested in becoming professional chocolatiers rather than lawyers and bankers.There could be money in it as well as the immense possibility of them growing up to be good people too.
Showing posts with label indonesia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label indonesia. Show all posts
Monday, 15 December 2008
Friday, 5 September 2008
COCOA FROM SUMATRA
You hear very little about Sumatra at cocktail parties. Yet there is enough on this island to replenish thousands of cocktail parties.
Sumatra is the largest and northern most of Indonesia's 17,000 islands. It resembles the head of a crocodile, lying in wait at the edge of the Indian ocean to devour the Malay Peninsula.
Sumatra is 470,000square kilometers and 1,790 Kim long.That makes it the sixth largest island in the world. It is inhabited by 45 million people.It it also home to 201 mammals and 580 bird species. Interesting residents include the Sumatran Tiger,Sumatran Rhinoceros,the Sumatran Elephant and the Sumatran Orang Utan.
It is separated from Java by the mysterious sounding Sunda Straits home once home of Krakatoa which blasted itself out of existence with shock waves that reached as far as the Californian coast.Another valcano rose from this spot. It is called "Anak Krakatoa" or the "Child of Karkatoa"
Its backbone of mountains reaching from far south to far north peak at some 3800 meters above sea level. This peak is an active volcano.
Sumatra was first populated in 500BC by Austronesian speaking people. In a remarkable short space of history it soon became a maritime power and even a reputed centre of learning. In 671, the Chinese Philosopher I-Ching studied Sanskrit here before sailing on to India. It was once know as "Swamadwipe", which translates as "Island of Gold".
On 26th December a 15 meter high Tsunami devastated the north of the island, Acheh.
Sumatra abounds with so many thrilling names that seem todrop out of the pages of Conrad's novels: Jambi, Palembang, Bengkulu, Pekanbaru, Lampung, Martapura, Manna, Peatangsiantar. The island is divided into half by the equator on which sits a town called Sangkalan. Of which little is known. But obviously a lot can be made of, for at least fifty or so cocktail parties.
This island provides Starbucks with a prized coffee. Which Starbucks describes as "full, syrupy body, intense and spicy, herbal with almost no acidity."
Of importance of some readers of my Blog, from Europe and the United States, Sumatra provides the world with a fine, small amount of cocoa(about 60,000 tons) from 64,000 ha of planted area, largely owned by small holders. Most of the cocoa is grown north of the island. Unlike Sulawesi, beans from Sumatra are processed.
If Geography is flavour, Sumatra beans are exotic,languorously spicy, herbal, with a strong sense of being related to Sumatra's famous coffee.Its aroma teases.It would make some very sensual pralines.Well worth an artisan's touch.
Sumatra is the largest and northern most of Indonesia's 17,000 islands. It resembles the head of a crocodile, lying in wait at the edge of the Indian ocean to devour the Malay Peninsula.
Sumatra is 470,000square kilometers and 1,790 Kim long.That makes it the sixth largest island in the world. It is inhabited by 45 million people.It it also home to 201 mammals and 580 bird species. Interesting residents include the Sumatran Tiger,Sumatran Rhinoceros,the Sumatran Elephant and the Sumatran Orang Utan.
It is separated from Java by the mysterious sounding Sunda Straits home once home of Krakatoa which blasted itself out of existence with shock waves that reached as far as the Californian coast.Another valcano rose from this spot. It is called "Anak Krakatoa" or the "Child of Karkatoa"
Its backbone of mountains reaching from far south to far north peak at some 3800 meters above sea level. This peak is an active volcano.
Sumatra was first populated in 500BC by Austronesian speaking people. In a remarkable short space of history it soon became a maritime power and even a reputed centre of learning. In 671, the Chinese Philosopher I-Ching studied Sanskrit here before sailing on to India. It was once know as "Swamadwipe", which translates as "Island of Gold".
On 26th December a 15 meter high Tsunami devastated the north of the island, Acheh.
Sumatra abounds with so many thrilling names that seem todrop out of the pages of Conrad's novels: Jambi, Palembang, Bengkulu, Pekanbaru, Lampung, Martapura, Manna, Peatangsiantar. The island is divided into half by the equator on which sits a town called Sangkalan. Of which little is known. But obviously a lot can be made of, for at least fifty or so cocktail parties.
This island provides Starbucks with a prized coffee. Which Starbucks describes as "full, syrupy body, intense and spicy, herbal with almost no acidity."
Of importance of some readers of my Blog, from Europe and the United States, Sumatra provides the world with a fine, small amount of cocoa(about 60,000 tons) from 64,000 ha of planted area, largely owned by small holders. Most of the cocoa is grown north of the island. Unlike Sulawesi, beans from Sumatra are processed.
If Geography is flavour, Sumatra beans are exotic,languorously spicy, herbal, with a strong sense of being related to Sumatra's famous coffee.Its aroma teases.It would make some very sensual pralines.Well worth an artisan's touch.
Wednesday, 30 July 2008
THE SYNTHESIS OF JAVA CHOCOLATE.
After all the home of cocoa is in equatorial regions. Where it was consumed by crushing the beans and mixing with spices found in the backyard. Aniseed was a favourite ingredient among the Aztecs. The first cocoa drinks were very local.
In Europe, they too made it local and subsequently exported their ides throughout the world to all chocolate lovers. Up to today Milk Chocolate remains the world's most popular. But within Europe things are changing. Chocolate has acquired, over the last fifty years more localised variations and flavours. Flavours and tastes even came from colonies and former colonies. Spain particularly was very keen of give chocolate the brisk feel of the Mediterranean.
There are several dates quoted as to when cocoa came to Indonesia. Some say it was brought by the Spaniards in 1560 or thereabouts. Others, borne out by credible records, say the late 18Th century.A report of that time says that that the first person to plant 50 trees would be awarded a trophy.
This strategy seemed to work. By 1839 annual exports to Europe were around 50 tonnes. Unfortunately the Sulawesi crops came under the scourge of Helopeltis and the Cocoa Pod Borer Moth.
Plantations moved to the Sangir islands and then on the Java. The Java Criollo, red Java, produces deep red pods with white beans. Later these were combined with trees from Caracas in 1888. These pods were yellow.
In the beginning of the 20Th century, 1000kg of beans were produced per ha. In the western part of Java a lighter fermented roasted bean great for milk chocolate was produced. This cocoa was known as Edelcacao or "noble cocoa,"
Today pretty exciting plantations exist in Ciajur, between Bandung and Jakarta, Around this area sugar is made from the sap of coconut trees.
Added to cocoa paste this combination gives a warm fruity taste. Later I began to realise that cocoa adds a nice warmth to some of our backyard spices. Adding a tingling and surprising flavour and aroma. It gives a new twist to many of our local foods(and I don't just mean desserts. sweets and snacks). The "warm twist" is very seductive on the palate.
It is therefore appropriate to set out some strategies to give cocoa and chocolate a Javanese direction(which from our history is not a new thing in itself, merely a logical progression, even if it comes a bit late).
We have to acknowledge that creativity with chocolate is a global art. It is harmony within complexity. It is a celebration of joy, provocation, ethnic exuberance, innovation and peace.
Regional chocolate, like Java chocolate among others, is a natural evolution rising from the richness of our backyard resources and culinary traditions. In Java, which the world knew for hundreds of years as the Spice Island, chocolate and cocoa blends well and enriches our own natural ingredients and with the vitality and sensuality of our tastes and flavours.
Here most of all, given our enormous backyard resources, no barriers will exist between the many different worlds from exotic to erotic and from sweet to pungent. We will learn and collaborate from knowledge and experience of chocolate professionals, and reach out to the scientific world which has brought on some spectacular advances to give an impetus to our evolution.
For centuries we have been very passionate about culinary innovation. That's why Bandung is the snack capital of the world, and unique flavours and tastes have emerged from Padang, Menado, Medan, Malang, Semerang, Bali and so on. These are cuisines come about through years of collaboration with the Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, Malays and others
Our development of chocolate will follow a similar path with a focus on our own growing gourmet traditions.
In time and with a sense of purpose, given our vast culinary resources we have no doubt we will make a profound effect on the world of chocolate. I hope that those who have an passionate investment in chocolate will collaborate.
In Europe, they too made it local and subsequently exported their ides throughout the world to all chocolate lovers. Up to today Milk Chocolate remains the world's most popular. But within Europe things are changing. Chocolate has acquired, over the last fifty years more localised variations and flavours. Flavours and tastes even came from colonies and former colonies. Spain particularly was very keen of give chocolate the brisk feel of the Mediterranean.
There are several dates quoted as to when cocoa came to Indonesia. Some say it was brought by the Spaniards in 1560 or thereabouts. Others, borne out by credible records, say the late 18Th century.A report of that time says that that the first person to plant 50 trees would be awarded a trophy.
This strategy seemed to work. By 1839 annual exports to Europe were around 50 tonnes. Unfortunately the Sulawesi crops came under the scourge of Helopeltis and the Cocoa Pod Borer Moth.
Plantations moved to the Sangir islands and then on the Java. The Java Criollo, red Java, produces deep red pods with white beans. Later these were combined with trees from Caracas in 1888. These pods were yellow.
In the beginning of the 20Th century, 1000kg of beans were produced per ha. In the western part of Java a lighter fermented roasted bean great for milk chocolate was produced. This cocoa was known as Edelcacao or "noble cocoa,"
Today pretty exciting plantations exist in Ciajur, between Bandung and Jakarta, Around this area sugar is made from the sap of coconut trees.
Added to cocoa paste this combination gives a warm fruity taste. Later I began to realise that cocoa adds a nice warmth to some of our backyard spices. Adding a tingling and surprising flavour and aroma. It gives a new twist to many of our local foods(and I don't just mean desserts. sweets and snacks). The "warm twist" is very seductive on the palate.
It is therefore appropriate to set out some strategies to give cocoa and chocolate a Javanese direction(which from our history is not a new thing in itself, merely a logical progression, even if it comes a bit late).
We have to acknowledge that creativity with chocolate is a global art. It is harmony within complexity. It is a celebration of joy, provocation, ethnic exuberance, innovation and peace.
Regional chocolate, like Java chocolate among others, is a natural evolution rising from the richness of our backyard resources and culinary traditions. In Java, which the world knew for hundreds of years as the Spice Island, chocolate and cocoa blends well and enriches our own natural ingredients and with the vitality and sensuality of our tastes and flavours.
Here most of all, given our enormous backyard resources, no barriers will exist between the many different worlds from exotic to erotic and from sweet to pungent. We will learn and collaborate from knowledge and experience of chocolate professionals, and reach out to the scientific world which has brought on some spectacular advances to give an impetus to our evolution.
For centuries we have been very passionate about culinary innovation. That's why Bandung is the snack capital of the world, and unique flavours and tastes have emerged from Padang, Menado, Medan, Malang, Semerang, Bali and so on. These are cuisines come about through years of collaboration with the Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, Malays and others
Our development of chocolate will follow a similar path with a focus on our own growing gourmet traditions.
In time and with a sense of purpose, given our vast culinary resources we have no doubt we will make a profound effect on the world of chocolate. I hope that those who have an passionate investment in chocolate will collaborate.
Saturday, 26 July 2008
CHOCOLATE IN YOUR BUBUR AYAM.
If you are reading this story from Mexico, Bubur is Indonesian for rice porridge. Everywhere you go in Java and rest of the 17000 islands of Indonesia you will find some variety of Bubur. The Chinese and Indians call it congee(porridge). It could well be Asia's main prepared food. Usually eaten as supper(much after dinner) or breakfast.
The are simple congees to complex ones. A fairly sophiscated version is made with the famous Chinese Five Spices with shreds of chicken.
What is Chinese Five Spices? Well its the great wonder powder that the Chinese invented to combine the five elements of taste: sour, bitter, sweet, pungent, and salty. Very, very close to the five elements of the taste of chocolate: sour, bitter,sweet,astrigent and umami.
Bitterness in chocolate comes from the caffeine, L-valine,L-tyrosine and L-isoleucine.The sour from acetic acid, latic acid and citric and oxalic. The sweet from galatose, glucose, L-serine, fructose and sucrose.Astringency, which I liken to puncency comes from amines, eplatechin, catechin and other horribly difficult to spell elements. Just trust me.
What is umami? Well in chocolate it come comes two main elements, glutamic acid and aspartic acid. You will find these elements in Ajinamoto. I liken it to being salty savoury.
Make your congee by boiling rice and once it is ready allow to simmer for about an hour. It will not boil over. Combine, strips of chicken, a clove of garlic crushed, thin strips of ginger, a teaspoon of oyster sauce,pinch of pepper, two pinches of salt, and simmer it with the cosimmering porridge.Added finely chopped onions if you wish. Then add two tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa. stir in and simmer. Garnish with fried onions. Serve.
With a dash of soy it can bring much joy.
You can makt a bit more interesting if you throw in some roasted cocoa nibs and some ikan bilis(deep fried anchovies) Even Italian anchovies are great as a garnish. Overdoing it perhaps but as Mae West said"Too much of a good thing is wonderful".
The are simple congees to complex ones. A fairly sophiscated version is made with the famous Chinese Five Spices with shreds of chicken.
What is Chinese Five Spices? Well its the great wonder powder that the Chinese invented to combine the five elements of taste: sour, bitter, sweet, pungent, and salty. Very, very close to the five elements of the taste of chocolate: sour, bitter,sweet,astrigent and umami.
Bitterness in chocolate comes from the caffeine, L-valine,L-tyrosine and L-isoleucine.The sour from acetic acid, latic acid and citric and oxalic. The sweet from galatose, glucose, L-serine, fructose and sucrose.Astringency, which I liken to puncency comes from amines, eplatechin, catechin and other horribly difficult to spell elements. Just trust me.
What is umami? Well in chocolate it come comes two main elements, glutamic acid and aspartic acid. You will find these elements in Ajinamoto. I liken it to being salty savoury.
Make your congee by boiling rice and once it is ready allow to simmer for about an hour. It will not boil over. Combine, strips of chicken, a clove of garlic crushed, thin strips of ginger, a teaspoon of oyster sauce,pinch of pepper, two pinches of salt, and simmer it with the cosimmering porridge.Added finely chopped onions if you wish. Then add two tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa. stir in and simmer. Garnish with fried onions. Serve.
With a dash of soy it can bring much joy.
You can makt a bit more interesting if you throw in some roasted cocoa nibs and some ikan bilis(deep fried anchovies) Even Italian anchovies are great as a garnish. Overdoing it perhaps but as Mae West said"Too much of a good thing is wonderful".
Sunday, 13 July 2008
CHOCOLATE AND CHILD LABOUR
Should every bar of chocolate carry an assurance that no child labour was ever involved in its production. Considering that hardly a day passes without a glimpse of of chocolate, if not its enjoyment, it is fair to ask manufacturers for such an assurance.
After the signing of the Harkin-Enoel Protocol in 2001, there are still doubts whether children are being exploited in cocoa farms, especially in West Africa. Disturbingly photographs of cocoa plantations in these areas often picture children who seem to be not just onlookers but part of the labour force. Indonesia, the world's third largest producer of cocoa, fortunately has been free from any allegations of child exploitation.Considering many of the farms, especially outside Java, are small family owned holdings, it is comforting that children are in school most of the working day.
Child labour is a disturbing issue. Especially these days when media reports exploitation of children widespread in all kinds of dreadful sins the chocolate industry, particularly must free itself from any such stigma. If manufacturers are reluctant for reasons that it may be inconvenient, the consumers must take the imitative. Can we ask that the next bar of chocolate we enjoy guarantees that a child wasn't exploited in its production. Considering the wretchedness of the the problem it is not too much to ask of manufacturers. Perhaps it it also be worth while, and certainly aid to our addiction to chocolate, if the bar we are enjoying in some way contributed to the welfare of a child in the cocoa growing areas.
It does well to remember that cocoa was first cultivated some 3000 years ago and treated with great reverence. Now that we are adequately civilised we do have responsibility to ensure that the food of the gods is not in any way tainted by misdeeds.
After the signing of the Harkin-Enoel Protocol in 2001, there are still doubts whether children are being exploited in cocoa farms, especially in West Africa. Disturbingly photographs of cocoa plantations in these areas often picture children who seem to be not just onlookers but part of the labour force. Indonesia, the world's third largest producer of cocoa, fortunately has been free from any allegations of child exploitation.Considering many of the farms, especially outside Java, are small family owned holdings, it is comforting that children are in school most of the working day.
Child labour is a disturbing issue. Especially these days when media reports exploitation of children widespread in all kinds of dreadful sins the chocolate industry, particularly must free itself from any such stigma. If manufacturers are reluctant for reasons that it may be inconvenient, the consumers must take the imitative. Can we ask that the next bar of chocolate we enjoy guarantees that a child wasn't exploited in its production. Considering the wretchedness of the the problem it is not too much to ask of manufacturers. Perhaps it it also be worth while, and certainly aid to our addiction to chocolate, if the bar we are enjoying in some way contributed to the welfare of a child in the cocoa growing areas.
It does well to remember that cocoa was first cultivated some 3000 years ago and treated with great reverence. Now that we are adequately civilised we do have responsibility to ensure that the food of the gods is not in any way tainted by misdeeds.
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