I consider worth mention because it combines dark milk chocolate with goji berries and salt. Made by Vosges Haut-Chocolate is is called Vosges Goji Exotic. Vosges claim on their pack that their chocolates take you through a sensory journey of awareness of indigenous cultures through spices, herbs, roots, flowers, nuts and the obscure with chocolate. Now goji berries.
Goji berries, or the genuine one are found in Tibet and in areas of China. They have been known for centuries to increase energy levels, quality of sleep, mental activity, calness and concentration. They were used for 2500 years for anti-aging. What more do you want.
Vosges Goji Exotic is 41% cocoa, dark and milk chocolate and PINK HIMALAYAN SALT!
Vosges uses various salts for their chocolate such as smoked saltand grey sea salt. They have also used smoked bacon in their Vosges Bacon Exotic.I have emailed them about our own Java Sea Salt that come in rock crystals and Bali Salt.
Tuesday, 12 August 2008
Monday, 11 August 2008
CHUAO VS JAVA.
Laughable of course to most chocolatiers. Chuao comes from a plantation in Choroni, along Venezeula's Caribbean coast. That much I knew. To get more Paul Lewis, a writer with the Guardian, who travelled to Choroni, helped.
As you approach this village in a large valley, the arid scent of fermenting beans shows you the way. A small pretty village of nicely painted houses and a church. They produce about 20 tonnes of cocoa beans a year. It costsabout $12 a kilo. It is a cash windfall for the families that live here. I some places bits that trickle out are sold for about $15 a kilo. The chocolate that it produces is sold for about $20 per 50gm.
Chuao is genetically "pure" Criollo". It was in the early stages abadoned in favour of the more hardy forastero bean. Pure Criollo softer, more aromatic,was neglected. But experts say that this species, like gold dust, still thrives in rainforests in Madagascar, the Carribbean islands and Mexico.
It used to be believed that Chuao has something in the soil, a unique combination of minerals.But it is more likely that the secret of Chuao beans is its inherited methods of growth, fermentation and drying. It is also people. They do as they have been doing for hundreds of years. They keep it small.
It makes me envious. I recall a plantation i recently visited near Ciajur, near Bandung. AS you approach the scent of fermenting beans overwhelms you. Very vinigarish.
Java riollo, as is planted here is also known as red Java. It was imported from Caracas, Venezuela in 1888. This plantation produced about 900kg a ha. With a total crop of 15 tons. In a wet year the crop could be more. Here it certainly looks like the methods of growing, fermenting and drying hasnt changed for years.
Does any great chocolatier use Java. I asked the best I know, Bonnat who produce atop the French Chartreuse Alps.One of the oldest factories in the world. Indeed they use Java cocoa. They produce a 100gm chocolate bar called Bonnat Java 65% Dark Milk Chocolate which is described as "a powerful blond cocoa coming from the Indonesian island of Java. The taste is unique with a creamy sensation on your palate,"
I suspect Java cocoa needs more PR.
As you approach this village in a large valley, the arid scent of fermenting beans shows you the way. A small pretty village of nicely painted houses and a church. They produce about 20 tonnes of cocoa beans a year. It costsabout $12 a kilo. It is a cash windfall for the families that live here. I some places bits that trickle out are sold for about $15 a kilo. The chocolate that it produces is sold for about $20 per 50gm.
Chuao is genetically "pure" Criollo". It was in the early stages abadoned in favour of the more hardy forastero bean. Pure Criollo softer, more aromatic,was neglected. But experts say that this species, like gold dust, still thrives in rainforests in Madagascar, the Carribbean islands and Mexico.
It used to be believed that Chuao has something in the soil, a unique combination of minerals.But it is more likely that the secret of Chuao beans is its inherited methods of growth, fermentation and drying. It is also people. They do as they have been doing for hundreds of years. They keep it small.
It makes me envious. I recall a plantation i recently visited near Ciajur, near Bandung. AS you approach the scent of fermenting beans overwhelms you. Very vinigarish.
Java riollo, as is planted here is also known as red Java. It was imported from Caracas, Venezuela in 1888. This plantation produced about 900kg a ha. With a total crop of 15 tons. In a wet year the crop could be more. Here it certainly looks like the methods of growing, fermenting and drying hasnt changed for years.
Does any great chocolatier use Java. I asked the best I know, Bonnat who produce atop the French Chartreuse Alps.One of the oldest factories in the world. Indeed they use Java cocoa. They produce a 100gm chocolate bar called Bonnat Java 65% Dark Milk Chocolate which is described as "a powerful blond cocoa coming from the Indonesian island of Java. The taste is unique with a creamy sensation on your palate,"
I suspect Java cocoa needs more PR.
Sunday, 10 August 2008
CHOCOLATE GOES EAST?
I was gripped by Bill Emmott's admonishment of Barrack Obama,in last week's Sunday Times, "Europe is for wimps. Tough guys go East."
My mind being one track related it to things chocolate and cocoa. Indeed it seems that chocolate is trending East Ironically it seems that most of the moves are made by the Europeans proving perhaps they are less wimp than we may be.
"Chocolate Challenges" Report says that chocolate consumption in Asia Pacific is growing at a rate of 25% a year. Manufacturers from the West are using new strategies to introduce their products and strategic tie-ups with local networks.
Cadbury, Nestle, Dove, Golden Monkey, Hershey"s have already established local ties. Barry Callebaut starts production with a capacity of 25,000 tonnes at Suzhou. This city is close to Shanghai where chocolate consumption per head is one kg(China per head is 100gm).
China, interesting also seems to go for quality. A new legislation will require that products with more than 5% vegetable fat will need to be labelled as containing cocoa substitutes.
Confectionery New Product Development reports that in 2007, 30% of new confectionery was launched in Asia Pacific second to Europe with 30%.Asia now stands at 17% of the world's cocoa consumption. If forecasts are right the chocolate cultural hub should move somewhere East.
Switzerland is the hub of the chocolate eating world. If it moves East where it it be?China, India, Singapore? I think the answer is coming to be clearer. It must be Indonesia.
Yesterday Merrill Lynch"s Lionel Neave announced the launch of the Gulamerah Fund. Though the name implies Palm Sugar, the Fund is all about chocolate. It aims at raising S$30million to plant cocoa plantations in Java, around Sukabumi(150years there were cocoa plantations here), Jember(close to the Cocoa Research Station) and elsewhere. Neave has been very successful in Cambodia with other crops.
Also not so long ago the Minister of Trade Mari Elka Pangestu(who is reported to love chocolate) announced that Indonesia will work with the Association of Chocolate, Biscuit and Confectionery Industries of the European Union(COABISCO) in developing cocoa based industries here. COABISCO recently visited Indonesian cocoa plantations and cocoa based industries here.
In Feburary Antara reported that PT. Uniflora would invest $2billion in a cocoa processing plant, in Serang, Banten.
These ambitions are not new. Three year ago Piter Jasman , Chairman of the Indonesian Cocoa Association(Askindo)proposed that cocoa exports look east towards ASEAN and China, pointing out that they are nearer and have large populations, with obviously great appetites for chocolate.
Indonesia is ideally placed to be the cocoa/chocolate hub, both functionally and culturally, in the Asia Pacific region. Indonesia produces about 450,000 MT of cocoa each year. About $700million in value. The country is the third largest producer of cocoa in the world. About 400,000 smallholders working on an average of 0.5ha to 1.5ha earn their livelihoods from cocoa. Eighty-five percent of Indonesian cocoa is grown in Sulawesi. The beans exports are unfermented, bulk beans and low cost and is used as a filler with fermented beans by chocolate manufacturers. Some have learned to use it skillfully.
The government has kept a hands off policy with cocoa and that ha actually befefitted the Indonesian farmer who can expect 75-85% profit from export prices as opposed to West African farmers who earn 50-60%.
Indonesia has very competitive advantages. It closer to the vast cocoa and chocolate potential.It has low cost high production capacity, efficient infrastructure and open trading. The cocoa value chain has also experienced phenomenal growth in the last decade. The free trade agreement between China and ASEAN will also be an advantage.
Java has the technology, science, the resources for innovation, expertise and experience and some of the giants in cocoa processing and chocolate manufacturing.
Java bring procurement closer to suppliers and manufacturers located closer to their markets. It then becomes cost beneficial.
We also have an appropriate location, historically rich Jogjakarta , a confluence of many cultures and one capable of absorbing a chocolate too. Surrounded by notable universities, an creative population and a very popular governor. Wat does it entail?
1) It requires learning. Setting up a Faculty of Chocolate at a university. To study the enormous possibilities of chocolate globally and towards the development of tastes, textures and flavours appealing to consumers in Asia Pacific, with focus on using backyard resources. And growing with trends because chocolate and cocoa development will never slow down.
For the university it can turn into commercial possibilities. Charles Stuart University in Australia made their own wine and cheese. And enterprisingly export their products.
2) Create a kind of Astor Center (modelled after New York"s)where the finest chocolate, food, nutrition experts can discourse share and demonstrate all aspects of their passion.
3) Set up a interactive, taste and experience oriented chocolate museum. Probably on location in a plantation.
4) Set up a carefully studied and researched chocolate cafe with franchise possibility. Carefully because it can be a venture fraught with some discouraging problems as Max Brenner in Singapore is experiencing.
5)Relate to the tourist industry and export potential of resources gained.
I will take up each of these points in future blogs.
It is a simple and feasible start and I hope some initiatives come along.
My mind being one track related it to things chocolate and cocoa. Indeed it seems that chocolate is trending East Ironically it seems that most of the moves are made by the Europeans proving perhaps they are less wimp than we may be.
"Chocolate Challenges" Report says that chocolate consumption in Asia Pacific is growing at a rate of 25% a year. Manufacturers from the West are using new strategies to introduce their products and strategic tie-ups with local networks.
Cadbury, Nestle, Dove, Golden Monkey, Hershey"s have already established local ties. Barry Callebaut starts production with a capacity of 25,000 tonnes at Suzhou. This city is close to Shanghai where chocolate consumption per head is one kg(China per head is 100gm).
China, interesting also seems to go for quality. A new legislation will require that products with more than 5% vegetable fat will need to be labelled as containing cocoa substitutes.
Confectionery New Product Development reports that in 2007, 30% of new confectionery was launched in Asia Pacific second to Europe with 30%.Asia now stands at 17% of the world's cocoa consumption. If forecasts are right the chocolate cultural hub should move somewhere East.
Switzerland is the hub of the chocolate eating world. If it moves East where it it be?China, India, Singapore? I think the answer is coming to be clearer. It must be Indonesia.
Yesterday Merrill Lynch"s Lionel Neave announced the launch of the Gulamerah Fund. Though the name implies Palm Sugar, the Fund is all about chocolate. It aims at raising S$30million to plant cocoa plantations in Java, around Sukabumi(150years there were cocoa plantations here), Jember(close to the Cocoa Research Station) and elsewhere. Neave has been very successful in Cambodia with other crops.
Also not so long ago the Minister of Trade Mari Elka Pangestu(who is reported to love chocolate) announced that Indonesia will work with the Association of Chocolate, Biscuit and Confectionery Industries of the European Union(COABISCO) in developing cocoa based industries here. COABISCO recently visited Indonesian cocoa plantations and cocoa based industries here.
In Feburary Antara reported that PT. Uniflora would invest $2billion in a cocoa processing plant, in Serang, Banten.
These ambitions are not new. Three year ago Piter Jasman , Chairman of the Indonesian Cocoa Association(Askindo)proposed that cocoa exports look east towards ASEAN and China, pointing out that they are nearer and have large populations, with obviously great appetites for chocolate.
Indonesia is ideally placed to be the cocoa/chocolate hub, both functionally and culturally, in the Asia Pacific region. Indonesia produces about 450,000 MT of cocoa each year. About $700million in value. The country is the third largest producer of cocoa in the world. About 400,000 smallholders working on an average of 0.5ha to 1.5ha earn their livelihoods from cocoa. Eighty-five percent of Indonesian cocoa is grown in Sulawesi. The beans exports are unfermented, bulk beans and low cost and is used as a filler with fermented beans by chocolate manufacturers. Some have learned to use it skillfully.
The government has kept a hands off policy with cocoa and that ha actually befefitted the Indonesian farmer who can expect 75-85% profit from export prices as opposed to West African farmers who earn 50-60%.
Indonesia has very competitive advantages. It closer to the vast cocoa and chocolate potential.It has low cost high production capacity, efficient infrastructure and open trading. The cocoa value chain has also experienced phenomenal growth in the last decade. The free trade agreement between China and ASEAN will also be an advantage.
Java has the technology, science, the resources for innovation, expertise and experience and some of the giants in cocoa processing and chocolate manufacturing.
Java bring procurement closer to suppliers and manufacturers located closer to their markets. It then becomes cost beneficial.
We also have an appropriate location, historically rich Jogjakarta , a confluence of many cultures and one capable of absorbing a chocolate too. Surrounded by notable universities, an creative population and a very popular governor. Wat does it entail?
1) It requires learning. Setting up a Faculty of Chocolate at a university. To study the enormous possibilities of chocolate globally and towards the development of tastes, textures and flavours appealing to consumers in Asia Pacific, with focus on using backyard resources. And growing with trends because chocolate and cocoa development will never slow down.
For the university it can turn into commercial possibilities. Charles Stuart University in Australia made their own wine and cheese. And enterprisingly export their products.
2) Create a kind of Astor Center (modelled after New York"s)where the finest chocolate, food, nutrition experts can discourse share and demonstrate all aspects of their passion.
3) Set up a interactive, taste and experience oriented chocolate museum. Probably on location in a plantation.
4) Set up a carefully studied and researched chocolate cafe with franchise possibility. Carefully because it can be a venture fraught with some discouraging problems as Max Brenner in Singapore is experiencing.
5)Relate to the tourist industry and export potential of resources gained.
I will take up each of these points in future blogs.
It is a simple and feasible start and I hope some initiatives come along.
Wednesday, 6 August 2008
CHOCOLATE AT THE OLYMPICS
At what is going to be the grandest Olympics ever, Chocolate will be participating. Snickers has been appointed the Official Chocolate of the Beijing Olympics. This rich chocolate bar studded generously with peanuts will provide athletes, officials and spectators will the energy they are going to need. In Indonesia, Snickers distributed by Nirwana Lestari, will in Indonesia shy away from any publicity.
The China English Language Daily reports the some athletes have included chocolate as part of their training diet. Among them are swimmers, Australian Libby Trickett and American Katie Nott. The latter preferring a peanut-brittle bar coated with chocolate.
The Swiss Embassy will be holding a chocolate exhibition of their products during the Games. Hershey's, though not officially connected will be running an interesting and involving promotion supporting the US athletes, called"Taste of Victory".
George Bush, getting int right, send off the US Olympic team with a dinner at the White House.
For dessert the President served the "Chocolate Olympic Torch"- a dark chocolate tart with raspberries and a brown-sugar Olympic flame.
CNN reports that taxi drivers in Beijing have nicknamed the city, "Chocolate City" because of the large presence of Africans.
In the meantime chocolate consumption in China is increasing, according to conservative estimates at 8% per annum, and by 15% by other estimates. With the current percapita consumption at 100-150gm there is obviously great opportunities. In Shanghai it is one kilogram of chocolate per head per year. If the Chinese in the Eastern, affluent seaboard cities alone, eat as much chocolate as the Japanese(2.2kg) chocolatiers will have a potential of 800,000 metrics tons of chocolate per year.
That's why Barry Callebaut has set up a factory there(operational this year). That is why BT Cocoa of Indonesia have smartly networked themselves in the China chocolate market also taking advantage of the removal of import taxes.
The China chocolate market as a whole is the second biggest in the region, after Japan. China Food Industries says that the annual consumption worth CNY3billion is projected to reach CNY20billion(about USSIbillion) by 2012.
If this figure is reached it will make China the Gold Medal winner of the world chocolate race.
The China English Language Daily reports the some athletes have included chocolate as part of their training diet. Among them are swimmers, Australian Libby Trickett and American Katie Nott. The latter preferring a peanut-brittle bar coated with chocolate.
The Swiss Embassy will be holding a chocolate exhibition of their products during the Games. Hershey's, though not officially connected will be running an interesting and involving promotion supporting the US athletes, called"Taste of Victory".
George Bush, getting int right, send off the US Olympic team with a dinner at the White House.
For dessert the President served the "Chocolate Olympic Torch"- a dark chocolate tart with raspberries and a brown-sugar Olympic flame.
CNN reports that taxi drivers in Beijing have nicknamed the city, "Chocolate City" because of the large presence of Africans.
In the meantime chocolate consumption in China is increasing, according to conservative estimates at 8% per annum, and by 15% by other estimates. With the current percapita consumption at 100-150gm there is obviously great opportunities. In Shanghai it is one kilogram of chocolate per head per year. If the Chinese in the Eastern, affluent seaboard cities alone, eat as much chocolate as the Japanese(2.2kg) chocolatiers will have a potential of 800,000 metrics tons of chocolate per year.
That's why Barry Callebaut has set up a factory there(operational this year). That is why BT Cocoa of Indonesia have smartly networked themselves in the China chocolate market also taking advantage of the removal of import taxes.
The China chocolate market as a whole is the second biggest in the region, after Japan. China Food Industries says that the annual consumption worth CNY3billion is projected to reach CNY20billion(about USSIbillion) by 2012.
If this figure is reached it will make China the Gold Medal winner of the world chocolate race.
Sunday, 3 August 2008
FAMOUS CHOCOLATE THIS WEEK.
The chocolate dessert atop the dessert list at Fat Duck currently is Delice of Chocolate which everyone knows is Chocolate Sorbet cumin caramel.
I cant off hand tell you what the recipe is. But judging from Heston Blumenthol's masterpieces, it will be very simple but skillfully prepared. So the chocolate will turn out as if it were made in heaven
The difference in this sorbet is the cumin caramel. Blumentol usuaaly turns out a better caramel than mortals. Blended to this is probably cumin seeds, roasted in a dry pan. This will deliver a impactful cumin flavour to the caramel.
You can imagine the result when it crackles with the sorbet.
Finally I got to taste a morsel from the revered Pierre Marcolini. Some chocoholics may have heared of his exquisite lookingFor sexily tickling taste buds I persume. chocolate heart with gold leaf packed in a box worthy of Tiffany,which replaced diamonds last Valentine's day.
What I got to taste, with compliments from a pasrty chef at Ritz Carlton, Marshmally cube , handmade I was told, with chocolates fragments and sprinkled with little sparks of chocolate.
Marshmallows are difficult to get in Jakarta. But this was not the usual stuff you get. It has more of a light jelly texture. It is French in orgin and called guimauve. I was offered it as part of a dessert. But I chose to eat it srraight and eyed the bag in which it arrived. The chef quickly placed it in his desk draw.
Pierre Marcolini's signature chocolate I am told is a blend of beans from Java and Venezuela.
There are nine varieties of Venezulan beans. But I suspect the bean he uses is Chuao. A hybrid of Trinitaro and Criollo. It is very assertive, sharp, plummy, with hints of molasses. It should blend, I guess well with the light bodied Java.
And talking about Chuao, it is also the brand name of the chocolate of Venezuelan brothers Michael and Richard Antonosri. Ferran Adria, of El Bulli, says it is the best in the world. Their Par Con CHocolate Burbon is filled with roasted Panko bread crumbs in olive oil with a pinch of sea salt. Next week I will tell you about their ancient Mayan chocolate chocolate recipes, if a friend at Four Seasons keeps his promise.
I cant off hand tell you what the recipe is. But judging from Heston Blumenthol's masterpieces, it will be very simple but skillfully prepared. So the chocolate will turn out as if it were made in heaven
The difference in this sorbet is the cumin caramel. Blumentol usuaaly turns out a better caramel than mortals. Blended to this is probably cumin seeds, roasted in a dry pan. This will deliver a impactful cumin flavour to the caramel.
You can imagine the result when it crackles with the sorbet.
Finally I got to taste a morsel from the revered Pierre Marcolini. Some chocoholics may have heared of his exquisite lookingFor sexily tickling taste buds I persume. chocolate heart with gold leaf packed in a box worthy of Tiffany,which replaced diamonds last Valentine's day.
What I got to taste, with compliments from a pasrty chef at Ritz Carlton, Marshmally cube , handmade I was told, with chocolates fragments and sprinkled with little sparks of chocolate.
Marshmallows are difficult to get in Jakarta. But this was not the usual stuff you get. It has more of a light jelly texture. It is French in orgin and called guimauve. I was offered it as part of a dessert. But I chose to eat it srraight and eyed the bag in which it arrived. The chef quickly placed it in his desk draw.
Pierre Marcolini's signature chocolate I am told is a blend of beans from Java and Venezuela.
There are nine varieties of Venezulan beans. But I suspect the bean he uses is Chuao. A hybrid of Trinitaro and Criollo. It is very assertive, sharp, plummy, with hints of molasses. It should blend, I guess well with the light bodied Java.
And talking about Chuao, it is also the brand name of the chocolate of Venezuelan brothers Michael and Richard Antonosri. Ferran Adria, of El Bulli, says it is the best in the world. Their Par Con CHocolate Burbon is filled with roasted Panko bread crumbs in olive oil with a pinch of sea salt. Next week I will tell you about their ancient Mayan chocolate chocolate recipes, if a friend at Four Seasons keeps his promise.
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